In one of the opening scenes of Anatomy of a Scandal,
Netflix’s hotly anticipated psychological thriller about
murky goings-on in the heart of Westminster, an
impeccably stylish woman vomits into a sink.
She is wearing the perfect cocktail dress — long-
sleeved, knee-length, just the right shade of ivory —
and a double-faced cashmere coat that those with a
trained eye will recognise as the work of Max Mara, the
Italian brand synonymous with no-nonsense luxury.
Sophie Whitehouse (played by Sienna Miller, who,
let’s be honest, would look good in a bin bag) is an
Oxford graduate-turned-immaculate political wife who
has just been informed that her MP husband (Rupert
Friend) has been sleeping with a junior colleague. She is
understandably reeling.
The scene is a fitting metaphor for the message behind
this drama: beneath the surface of a perfect world lurks a
stomach-turning undercurrent. As you’ll know if you’ve
read Sarah Vaughan’s novel on which the show is based,
things are about to get worse as dark secrets from the
politician’s past emerge and a rape case commences with
Kate Woodcroft (Michelle Dockery) leading the prose-
cution. But it’s hard to focus on the drama. Indeed it’s
easy to be distracted from the plot because in Mrs
Whitehouse we have a new fashion icon.
While HBO’s Succession gave us inconspicuous
luxury and clinical minimalism with its logo-less base-
ball caps and quiet cashmere rollnecks, Anatomy of a
Scandal brings a new age of stealth wealth and a new
version of power dressing that is set to resonate hard
with those who watch it. In the six-part miniseries (the
work of Big Little Lies’ David E Kelley) the Whitehouses
live a life of supreme luxury and flawless style.
Members of the Westminster elite, they are creatures
of gilded drawing rooms, walk-in wardrobes and chic
kitchens featuring Crittall doors, paper-thin wine
glasses and vases of perfectly arranged white flowers.
Their clothes radiate the same flawlessness, with
immaculate tailoring and discreet luxury very much the
calling card of this modern-day power couple.
The costume designer is Sam Perry, an industry stal-
wart who was nominated for an Emmy for her work on
Killing Eve and is undoubtedly the reason Anatomy of a
Scandal is emerging as among this year’s most stylish
shows. Perry’s work paints a picture of extreme privi-
lege while simultaneously reflecting the idea of fashion
as emotional armour. “Clothing is power but it isn’t
necessarily happiness. Your whole world can still fall
apart if you’re wearing a nice frock,” she tells me.
Sophie Whitehouse’s look is both put together and
purposefully understated. “She isn’t a woman that usedher sexuality to get what she wanted,” Perry says. “She
dresses well because she has the money to afford that
lifestyle. But she is also not a vain character.”
While her world unravels around her, Sophie’s
perfectly put together outfits become a way of creating
stability and connection to her life as it was. Fashion is
her security blanket. Later in the series, dressing casually
(she wears a trilby and jeans to visit family in the country-
side) becomes the character’s way of distancing herself
from her husband. “It’s a mark of rebellion,” Perry says.
Undoubtedly her wardrobe, with its camel coats,
long-sleeved dresses and cashmere rollnecks, repre-
sents an aesthetic that resonates with a particular breed
of contemporary woman. “It’s a woman who steers
clear of anything glitzy, or tight, or sexy,” according to
Perry. “Her look is no-frills, no sparkles — just beau-
tiful, elegant clothes.”
The Netflix series is the latest in a long line of shows
that remind us the best TV is no longer just entertain-
ment but a visual feast loaded with stylistic inspiration.
Those who know their “old” Celine from their
Totême (Sophie is a fan of both) will find plenty of eye
candy and, indeed, shopping inspiration in this produc-
tion. Her aesthetic, with its purposefully oversized
cashmere and minimalist capes, works because it
reflects the way modern women aspire to dress. In fact
it will appeal to those who worship at the altar of
Phoebe Philo, the British former creative director at
Celine who built her career on a grown-up, intelligent
take on womenswear and is expected to launch her
self-titled label this year.
This breed of power dressing is enjoying plenty of
airtime on screen at the moment as costume designersFrom left Power players Nicola Walker in The Split, Jessica Chastain in Scenes from a Marriage and Kristin Scott Thomas in Slow HorsesThis picture
and opposite
Anatomy of
a Scandal
starring
Sienna Miller
and Rupert
FriendNetflix, BBC, Sky, Apple T V+
The Sunday Times Style • 35