F2 EZ EE THE WASHINGTON POST.SUNDAY, APRIL 10 , 2022
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TRAVELentirely impossible. On the first
leg of my journey, a one-hour
flight from Abu Dhabi to Doha, I
kept my mask snugly over my
nose and mouth. A flight
attendant patrolled the aircraft
to ensure no one was cheating.
But on the long flight from Doha
to Cape Town, I added an eye
mask. After a few hours of fitful
sleep, I awakened to find that my
face mask had slipped below my
nose.
Of course, there’s one obvious
way to sleep more comfortably,
masked or not: You can get a
better seat. I asked a gate agent in
Doha if I could sit with my sons.
(All of us are 6-foot-1.) The agent
seated us in an exit row with
plenty of legroom.
Maria LaDuca, who owns the
travel agency called Agency Chic,
upgraded her January flight from
New York to Dubai on Emirates
to business class. “You get a
toiletry bag filled with essential
items, an eye mask, socks,
blanket and pillow for your
journey.” Most important, she
says, were the lie-flat seats.
Experienced red-eye
passengers say it is particularly
difficult to use an eye mask, a face
mask and a neck pillow together.
“Your mask could get in the
way of your favorite eye mask,”
says Nicole Gustas, a veteran of
many international overnight
flights. “My face mask prevents
my eye mask from sliding fully
over my eyes, and instead, I have
to wrap my eyes with a T-shirt.”
Gustas, the marketing director
for International Insurance, an
insurance company for
expatriates, says her neck pillow
has also been a problem. It
pushes her mask up and into her
face.
Her advice? “Try it all on
before you fly,” she says.
There are many time-tested
strategies for sleeping on
overnight flights, pandemic or
not. Eating the right foods,
avoiding caffeine and alcohol,
and staying hydrated can all
improve your rest. Jeffrey
Durmer, chief medical officer for
sleep-focused health-care
company Nox Health,
recommends five-minute breath-
focused meditations before
trying to sleep.
“Taking your focus away from
the environment and placing it
on something entirely in your
control — the breath — helps the
mind to settle and become calm,”
Durmer says.
As a yoga practitioner, I tried
to follow Durmer’s advice on my
overnight flight, but the Qatar
Airways flight attendant nixed
doing a sukhasana pose in an exit
row. She ordered me to return to
my seat, where I obediently
remained for the duration of the
flight.
In the end, my best advice for
surviving overnight flights is to
avoid them entirely. They might
be bearable if you can afford an
upgrade to business class. Those
lie-flat seats on Qatar Airways
sure looked nice, and the
passengers leaving the plane
appeared to be less sleep-
deprived.
But I don’t have a few
thousand extra dollars lying
around. If I have to take an
overnight flight again, I think I
can get through it with the right
mask and eyeshade. And maybe a
dress rehearsal before I take off.Elliott is a consumer advocate,
journalist and co-founder of the
advocacy group Travelers United.
Email him at [email protected].Can you get a good
night’s sleep on an
overnight flight? I
recently had the
opportunity to
find out. I booked
one of the worst
red-eye flights
imaginable: an
overnight
itinerary from
Abu Dhabi,
United Arab Emirates, to Cape
Town, South Africa, with a
midnight stopover in Doha,
Qatar.
Sleeping on planes has never
been easy — especially when
you’re seated in economy class.
Throw in a mask requirement,
and the likelihood of restful in-
flight sleep seems slimmer than
ever.
Are we doomed to ending
every overnight flight with
bloodshot eyes? That’s something
travelers want to know with
summer travel season
approaching and more
Americans likely to travel farther
than they have since the
pandemic started.
In the United States, the
Transportation Security
Administration’s mask mandate
is set to expire April 18, but most
international carriers will still
require face coverings. Some
airlines, such as TAP Air Portugal,
say they will continue to require
masks even if they’re no longer
mandated by health authorities.
I’ve spoken with many
travelers who say the same:
They’ll keep wearing masks on
planes whether they’re required
or not.
But will they sleep? “Overnight
flights for passengers in economy
class will be a challenge,” says
Mahmood Khan, a professor in
Virginia Tech’s hospitality and
tourism management
department. “You have to sleep
with a mask on while sitting.”
Bob Bacheler, managing
director of Flying Angels, an
emergency medical
transportation service, says it’s
“nearly impossible” to sleep while
wearing an N95 mask. The masks
aren’t designed for comfort, of
course, or to be worn on
marathon flights. “The key to
sleeping with a mask is to find
one that’s comfortable to wear,”
he says.
Kathy Johnston likes KF94
masks, referred to as the South
Korean equivalent of the N95.
“They sit a little further away
from the mouth and nose,
allowing for more natural
breathing,” she says. “It’s more
relaxing and easier to wear for
long periods.”
As the chief chocolate officer
for Mirzam Chocolate Makers in
Dubai, Johnston is frequently on
long-haul flights. Her pro tip for
surviving an overnight flight
during the pandemic: Pack a
selection of masks in case one
gets uncomfortable or breaks.
It’s important to note that you
may not have a mask choice.
When I recently flew from Lisbon
to Frankfurt, Germany, on
Lufthansa, the flight attendants
told me that my cloth mask didn’t
provide sufficient protection and
gave me a surgical mask to wear
instead. (Of course, context is
everything. When I rode the
world’s fastest roller coaster, Abu
Dhabi’s Formula Rossa, earlier
this year, the ride attendants
asked me to wear a cloth mask,
because looser-fitting surgical
masks tend to come off at 149
mph.)
Sleeping with a mask is notIs shut-eye on a red-eye
still possible with masks?
The
Navigator
CHRISTOPHER
ELLIOTTThis sign was spotted by Meg Moran of Easton, Md., on Isla Holbox, north
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or republish them in any form. No purchase necessary.MEG MORANSIGN LANGUAGEBY NEVIN MARTELLThe golden age of air travel,
when the onboard meal was
something to happily anticipate,
is so far behind us it seems almost
fictional. Unless you’re in busi-
ness or first class, or on a long
international flight, you probably
won’t be served a meal. Some
flights don’t even offer food for
purchase, and if you don’t bring
something to eat, you’ll have to
sustain yourself on miniature
bags of pretzels and a can of
tomato juice. Don’t expect the
airport restaurants or concession
stands to save you, either. The
options there are usually under-
whelming and overpriced, and
they risk making you feel worse
upon landing.
As a frequent flier, I’ve learned
to pack something suitable to
snack on for longer flights —
something that keeps my hunger
in check but doesn’t fill me up so
much that I risk getting queasy if
we hit turbulence or feeling un-
comfortably bloated when I de-
plane. Now that we are traveling
more as the coronavirus pandem-
ic seems to wane, I wanted to
switch up my snacking game. So, I
turned to six pro chefs to find out
what they bring. Follow this ad-
vice, and you’ll never be hangry at
35,000 feet again.
Level up your liquids
Always carry a durable water
bottle. Many airports now have
filling stations, usually near the
water fountains, so you can fill up
after passing through security.
But you don’t need to stop
there. Pastry chef Paola Velez,
co-founder of Bakers Against
Racism and host of Food & Wine’s
“Pastries With Paola” video series,
likes to add Liquid I.V. Hydration
Multiplier and Immune Support
powder to her water. “It’s basical-
ly an energy drink,” she says. “It
helps me stay hydrated and feel-
ing good.”
If caffeine is your thing and you
want to perk yourself up without
standing in Starbucks or Dunkin’
lines, there are both iced tea and
coffee powders. Civilized and
Cusa make instant cold-brew cof-
fee granules that transform sim-
ple H20 into eye-opening fuel. Of
course, you can always bring bags
of your favorite tea, coffee or
chocolate beverage and ask for
heated water on the plane.
Create bento boxes
For “Top Chef” star Bryan Volt-
aggio, chef of Thacher & Rye and
Showroom in Frederick, Md.,
compartmentalized, covered ben-
to boxes are key to successful
in-air snacking. They allow him
to arrange a variety of tasty bites
and create a multitude of flavor
combinations, which keeps
snacking interesting over the
long haul. “I’ll put together a
selection of salumi, a couple of
cheeses, crackers, pretzels and
maybe some homemade hum-
mus,” he says. “It’s whatever I’m
in the mood for.”Sandwiches satisfy
When the flight is longer than a
few hours — such as a cross-coun-
try nonstop from D.C. to Los
Angeles — Voltaggio carries
something more substantial to
sustain himself. A handmade
sandwich offers a comforting
taste of home that will satiate
almost as much as a meal. His
favorite combos include sunflow-
er butter and cream cheese (“It
sounds odd, but trust me,” he
says); turkey with avocado and
bacon; and chicken salad enliv-
ened with mustard, chopped dill
pickles and plenty of freshly
cracked black pepper.
Gluten-free seeded breads are
great for long flights, because
they fill you up and are packed
with protein, fiber, healthy fats
and nutrients. Because the brick-
like loaves are so dense, you don’t
have to stop at sandwiches. Con-
sider using them to make open-
faced sweet or savory tartines.
You can try nut butter and a little
honey; roast turkey and Swiss
cheese with mustard and mayon-
naise; or ricotta topped with
sliced cherry tomatoes, fresh ba-
sil, cracked pepper and Maldon
sea salt.Baller snacks
When he flies, Diego Oka, exec-
utive chef of La Mar by Gastón
Acurio in Miami, is all about
Japanese onigiri (seaweed-cov-
ered rice balls). His favorites
come packed with miso-seasoned
pork or umeboshi (salted Japa-
nese plum). “They are meant to be
eaten at room temperature, they
come perfectly wrapped and they
are convenient,” he says. “You can
just throw them in a bag, and you
don’t need utensils.”Nuts about nuts
All the chefs are big fans of
snacking on nuts. Because nuts
are brimming with protein, they
satisfy hunger for a longer period
than other options. Velez loves
cashews, especially in Larabar
products. For Voltaggio, Marcona
almonds are king, especially
when tossed with Old Bay season-
ing or rosemary snipped from his
garden. When chef Nina Comp-
ton of Compère Lapin and Bywa-
ter American Bistro in New Or-
leans wants something sweet but
still healthy, she’ll pick up a nut-
rich Kind bar.Salty goodness
If sodium is your weakness, a
five-hour flight seems like the
perfect excuse to crush a mega-
size bag of Ruffles or a box of
Cheez-Its. However, the chefs
suggest slightly healthier salty
snacks. Velez leans into Pop-
Corners — triangular chips some-
what similar to popcorn — which
come in three flavors: sea salt,
white cheddar and kettle corn. Or
she’ll bring along plantain chips,
because she finds they help her
feel full for a longer period than
other chips. Voltaggio always
packs a few strips of biltong (beef
jerky). “I love chewy texture, and
it has a little more fat to it, so it’s
not dry,” he says. “Plus, it’s flavor-
ful and has a lot of protein.”Don’t forget fruit
A container of freshly cut fruit
can be pure pleasure at cruising
altitude, offering a hit of natural
sweetness and hydration. Dried
fruit may not pack the water
content, but it still has plenty of
fructose to help placate your
sweet tooth. Velez always travels
with Pure Organic layered fruit
bars. “I’m hypoglycemic, so if my
sugar level drops, I can quickly
bring it back up,” she says.Refreshing pico de gallo
Iliana de la Vega, chef and
co-owner of El Naranjo in Austin
and a James Beard Award finalist
this year for Best Chef: Texas,
makes fresh pico de gallo to sus-
tain her on trips. Though you can
use whatever fruits and vegeta-
bles you have on hand to make the
salsa, she prefers large, easy-to-
pick-up chunks of jicama, cucum-
bers, oranges, grapefruit, radish-
es, mangoes and pineapples.
Quickly toss it all with salt and
chili powder to taste, and pack
lime slices to squeeze on when
you’re ready to eat. “It’s refresh-
ing and not heavy on your stom-
ach,” she says. “And there’s no fork
required. You can just reach in for
a piece of whatever you want
when you’re in the mood for it.”Personalize your trail mix
Can’t make up your mind on
whether to bring something salty
or sweet? Craft an as-you-like-it
blend of nuts, seeds, dried fruit
pieces and small candies, such as
M&M’s, chocolate chips or Reese’s
Pieces. There’s a lot of protein for
sustenance, and plenty of sugar
for a quick rush.Indulge yourself
Is a metal tube full of strangers
cruising about 500 mph high
above the Earth’s surface not your
happy place? Give yourself some-
thing to look forward to by bring-
ing a special treat to savor. Someof my favorites are Cretors cara-
mel popcorn, a mixed bag of
gummies from Sockerbit or a
crunchy, salted-almond Toble-
rone bar.Conversation starters
Especially when traveling
alone, I’ll slip a few individually
wrapped sweets, such as small
bags of M&M’s or miniature choc-
olate bars, into my carry-on to
share with my seatmates. I don’t
always have the interest or time
for conversations on long flights,
but when I do, proffering a little
goody creates an instant ice-
breaker. It can start a dialogue
that gives me the opportunity to
see a new perspective, hear an
unusual story or simply have a
moment of connection.Get nostalgic
When she was growing up,
Sara Bradley — a “Top Chef” star
who owns Freight House in Pad-
ucah, Ky. — had a tradition of
buying special snacks at the air-
port to celebrate her travels. She
still purchases longtime favor-
ites: everything spiced bagel
chips, Twizzlers and a can of root
beer, if she can find one at the
airport. “Even if I’m on a stressful
trip — I just have to fly some-
where, be there for a day, and then
fly right back — those snacks chill
me, because they take me back to
being a kid.”Spice up your life
Sometimes it’s not about the
food you bring, it’s about how you
season the food you get on your
trip, whether during your flight
or after. Compton always carries a
little container of Jacobsen’s flaky
salt and a bottle of Crystal hot
sauce; Voltaggio packs a tin of
Maldon smoked sea salt. I usually
carry a small spice kit with me,
which includes tiny jars of Urfa
biber chiles, merquén (Chilean
smoked chiles), za’atar, MSG and
truffle salt. All of these options
can turn bland and boring dishes
into ones with personality and
pizazz.Practice patience
Whatever you bring to nibble
on, Voltaggio recommends re-
straining yourself. You don’t need
a full meal. “What’s exciting about
travel are the destinations I get to
go, where I try new food, meet up
with old friends and make new
ones,” he says. “The snacks in
between are just designed to hold
me over until I get to my next
great meal.”Martell is a writer based in Silver
Spring. His website is
nevinmartell.com. Find him on Twitter
and Instagram: @nevinmartell.Snacks on a plane: Tips for in-air treats
ISTOCK/WASHINGTON POST ILLUSTRATIONCan’t make up your mind on whether to bring something salty or sweet?
Craft an as-you-like-it blend of nuts, seeds, dried fruit pieces and small candies,
such as M&M’s, chocolate chips or Reese’s Pieces.