DRINK●Will Lyons
2020 Loved &
Found Roero
Arneis
Waitrose, £7.99
(13%) Italy
The Loved &
Found range of
unusual wines
from Waitrose
can be a bit hit
and miss, but
this arneis from
the northwestern
Piedmont region
caught my eye.
Best enjoyed
young, it’s
full-bodied and
fresh, with
enjoyable floral
notes, hints of
fruit and a dry
but texturally
rich finish.Delicious Rhône Valley wines
that don’t cost the earth
F
inding value in France’s blue-chip wine regions
may seem an impossible task, given that prices
can stretch into the thousands. But while most
of us have said our goodbyes to the top wines
of Bordeaux and Burgundy, there is one ancient
region that, for the canny buyer, offers both
value and consistency: the Rhône Valley.
It’s true that some of the most celebrated
northern appellations — names such as
Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie and Cornas — have
been discovered by a thirsty international
market, in some cases pushing prices above £200
a bottle (the earthy, peppery 2017 Patrick Jasmin La
Girofleurie is as close to good value as you’ll find from
Côte-Rôtie; £49.50 at Yapp Brothers). However, further
south, where vineyards fan out from the city of Orange
around villages such as Gigondas, Vacqueyras and
Lirac, you can still pick up a comparative bargain.Often a blend of grenache, syrah and mourvèdre,
the reds here can be luscious and sensuous, with ripe
red berries and a slight pepperiness. Replete with
dark fruit and savoury grace, the 2019 Rouge Cuvée
de la Reine des Bois Domaine de la Mordorée (Lea &
Sandeman, £28.95) is a case in point. At the lower end,
the quality and consistency in an appellation such as
Côtes du Rhône is remarkable considering the quantity
of wine produced. Given the heat, alcohol levels can
be on the high side but there are areas, notably the
commune of Vinsobres, where the vines are planted
at altitude and retain plenty of freshness and balance.
Don’t overlook the whites, either. Usually a blend of
marsanne, roussanne and viognier, with grenache blanc
and picpoul sometimes in the mix, they can be delightful.
Low in acidity, they too are undergoing a style change
from heavy, oily or nutty flavours towards a fresher,
crisper character. Just the thing at this time of year n2020 Taste the Difference Côtes du Rhône White
Sainsbury’s, £8 (12.5%) Floral aromas jostle with
peach and give way to a firm, dry finish in this spring-
like blend, tailor-made for light salads and white meat.2020 Côtes du Rhône Rosé Marks & Spencer, £8
(13%) For the price you can’t go wrong with this
vibrant, red berry-infused mix of grenache, cinsault
and syrah, which finishes crisp, clean and savoury.2020 Esprit des Trois Pierres Costières de Nîmes
Waitrose, £8.99 (14.5%) The maritime breezes
around Costières de Nîmes impart a gentle acidity,
enhanced here by succulent fruit and a spicy kick.2020 Les Arbousiers Côtes du Rhône Domaine
La Réméjeanne The Wine Society, £14.95 (13%)
A classic Rhône white from a father and son team with
a herbaceous character and hints of fennel and pear.2018 Famille Perrin Close Encounters Châteauneuf
du Pape Co-op, £20 (14%) The Perrins own Château de
Beaucastel, one of the top châteauneuf estates. This
example is dark-hued, full-bodied and richly fruited.2020 Domaine Lombard Brézème Les Davids Blanc
Yapp Brothers, £24 (12%) Here’s a stylish white with
a gentle floral character and notes of peach and
citrus, finishing with a clean, slightly creamy texture.123 456Bargain
of the
week
JASON ALDEN
The Sunday Times Magazine • 47