Before testing these pizza ovens, we
heated them each for 30 minutes to
season them and burn off any oils
or contaminants from manufactur-
ing, then let them cool completely.
Firing up each oven on High, using
their propane burners for 15 min-
utes, we measured the temperatures
on the pizza stones with an infrared
thermometer. Then, we made pizza
in the ovens, using the same dough
for every pie. This ensured that any
difference in how the pizza cooked
came from the ovens, not the recipe.
For fuel, we burned propane and oak
firewood (for the models that burn
wood). During cooking, we noted how
well each oven performed, the differ-
ences between them, and their ease
of use. Finally, and most enjoyably,
we assessed (read: ate) the pizza.
HOW WE TESTED
I had never seriously considered a dedicated pizza oven because, frankly, the
cost seemed a bit excessive. Being a test editor is keeping an open mind, though,
and testing these ovens changed everything. I learned how easy it is to make
the best-tasting, and looking, pizza ever. I haven’t had take-out pizza since.
Most importantly, the pizza oven made our family dinners more engaging,
cooperative, and fun. From shaping dough and spreading sauce to sprinkling on
cheese and toppings, everyone chipped in. One batch of dough makes four to five
12-inch pizzas—enough for each of us to eat our favorite type. With the ability to
cook a pizza in about a minute, it’s easy to keep the pies coming.THE CASE FOR
PIZZA OVENS
Ingredients
4½ cups of
type “00” flour
12⁄3 cups of hot
tap water
2 teaspoons
of salt
½ teaspoon
active dried
yeastThese are the ingredients and
steps we used to make the dough
for testing. It’s our own take on
classic Neapolitan pizza dough.Instructions- Pour the water in a bowl. Stir in the salt and yeast until dissolved.
- Put the flour in a large bowl. Add about a quarter of the water.
- Mix the flour and water by hand or with a mixer and a dough hook.
- Add the rest of the water gradually as you mix—over the course of
8 minutes, or until the dough is a smooth, even consistency. - Sprinkle flour on the counter and on your hands. Dump the dough
on the counter, then fold and knead it into a ball. - Put the dough in a bowl, cover the bowl with a damp towel, and let
the dough rise for 2 to 3 hours. - Cut the dough into 4 to 5 pieces, shape it into balls, place in bowls,
and cover bowls with a damp towel for 2 hours. Then it’s ready to use.
OUR PIZZA
DOUGH RECIPE
May/June 2022 83