Feeling the Heat: Dispatches from the Frontlines of Climate Change

(Chris Devlin) #1

“When you sit here totally surrounded and dominated by the sea,”
Mussington says, “and that is your life and your livelihood, global
warming becomes a big deal.”
I ask whether there is any talk of utilizing renewable energy on the
island. “It’s a minority, but I’m trying to push for it as much as possi-
ble,” he responds. “Because we are flat, the solar intensity you get here
is higher than in most of the Caribbean islands. The angle at which the
rays of the sun hit us, and the duration, makes us an ideal place for
solar technology. Also, with the prevailing winds we have, setting up
wind towers could meet the needs of 1,400 people comfortably and pay
for itself within a matter of 10 years. These things are expensive in
terms of initial investment, but in the long run we are isolated and our
best bet is to try to go in that direction. For example, when Hurricane
Luis passed through, this island was cut off because neither airplanes
nor boats could get here for a couple of weeks. In that circumstance
our fuel needs started to be used up, which meant our power genera-
tion plant could not operate.”
In terms of future development for tourism, Mussington is
adamant that setback limits must be implemented. “We cannot con-
tinue to have investors coming and building hotels right on the beach!”
He suggests I drive down-island toward Coco Point, and try to sneak a
look behind the gates of the exclusive K-Club.
So, after dropping Mussington home and sampling the Palm Tree
Restaurant’s spicy bull-foot soup, stewed goat, and pigeon peas rice (all
quite delectable), I wend my way south again, keeping an eye out for
wild boar that are occasionally sighted along the landscape. The main
gate to the Italian-owned K-Club, where beach villas rent for almost
$3,000 a day, is barred. The club is situated in a 230-acre park with a
nine-hole golf course and two tennis courts. I drive on below the white
bungalows, on a mile-and-a-half-long frontage road. Finally I park out-
side a rear entryway and simply walk through some trees onto the
beach.
It is astounding how close the K-Club’s villas are to the ocean.
Today’s calm, limpid sea laps up to within about 30 feet of the
dwellings. A few people are out getting a tan, but for the most part the
resort appears almost empty. At last I enter the central clubhouse with


74 Dick Russell

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