Australian Yoga Journal – July 2019

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62


july

2019

yogajournal.com.au

VARANASI


RISHIKESH


PHOTO: SAIKO3P/ISTOCKPHOTO.COM; FANCYCRAVE;UNSPLASH

HOLYCITIES


Prayagraj
This lesser-known holy city, formerly
called Allahabad and renamed in late
2018 by a new government trying to
build a more spiritual India, is located at
the confluence of the Ganges, the
Yamuna, and the mythical Sarasvati
Saraswati rivers. When the Kumbh Mela
festival happens here (most recently in
January 2019), it’s the largest: Up to 150
million pilgrims will travel from across
the country and the world and wait for
days to bathe in the holy river.

Haridwar
The Ganges—or Ganga, considered a
living goddess—descends from its source
in the Himalayas, called Gomukh, to the
north Indian plains in Haridwar before
making its way across the country and
pouring into the Bay of Bengal. That’s
why this city’s name means “gateway to
god” and has been a centre of Hindu
religion and mysticism since ancient
times. In Hindu mythology, Haridwar is
also one of the four sites where drops of
amrit, the elixir of immortality,
accidentally spilled over from the celestial
bird Garuda’s pitcher. This manifested in
the Kumbh Mela, a religious festival that’s
celebrated four times over the course of 12
years at four different pilgrimage sites,
including Haridwar. Even when this
famous festival isn’t happening, you can
experience nightly Ganga Aarti
ceremonies here.

13

IMPORTANT PLACES


TO VISIT


Trying to come up with the perfect itinerary to fit your time frame—and not
sure where to start, given India’s vastness? Here, Chandresh Bhardwaj, author of
Break the Norms, and a seventh-generation spiritual teacher in New York and Los
Angeles who leads multiple retreats in his homeland of India each year, shares
his top picks for the holy cities, historical sites, and spiritual pilgrimages every
student of yoga should consider.

Varanasi
One of the oldest inhabited cities on
Earth, Varanasi is also one of India’s
holiest. Walk on the river’s banks, and
you’ll hear the near-constant clanging
of puja ceremonial bells and see the
flicker of lamps illuminating the holy
river at night. You’ll also see pilgrims
bathing—and a maze of funeral pyres,
where bodies burn along Varanasi’s
cremation ghat, or river bank. “This is a
city where death is honoured,
welcomed, and celebrated in a sacred
way,” Bhardwaj says. “Many Indians
believe that if the right rituals are done
at the time of their death, they’ll achieve
the ultimate goal—liberation of the
constant cycle of being born, suffering,
and going through the drama of
living—if their body is burned or their
ashes are scattered in Varanasi.”

Rishikesh
Want to practice in the footsteps of the
ancient yogis? Rishikesh, considered by
many to be the yoga capital of India—of
the world, really—is where yoga,
tantra, and mantras were created,
Bhardwaj says. “There’s such powerful
energy here that even if you don’t
practice asana or meditation and just
keep yourself receptive and open, big
things can happen,” he says. On the
banks of the holy river Ganges you’ll
find ashrams, temples, and shops, as
well as a diverse, international group of
spiritual seekers. When you’re there,
don’t miss Ganga Aarti, a fire ceremony
at the sacred bank called Triveni Ghat.
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