DRINK●Will Lyons
2020 Castillo
de Zalin
Organic
Monastrell
Co-op, £7.50
(14%) Spain
Monastrell,
better known
as mourvèdre
in the southern
Rhône region,
produces a
succulent red
wine with dark,
almost black
fruit and smooth
blackberry
flavours. Ideal
with red meats.Surprising and unusual gems
from the new world
W
ine never fails to change and surprise.
You would think, given I have been
tasting my way around the wine world
for more than 20 years, that there is
very little left that’s unexpected. You’d
be wrong. The present fashion for
individuality and distinctiveness has
led many producers to shift their gaze
from the famous old grape varieties,
such as chardonnay, sauvignon and
merlot, to the more quirky and unusual.
It seems that my attention is drawn to something
out of the ordinary almost every week. That could be
a blend of godello and doña blanca, such as the Wine
Society’s 2020 Capricho Bierzo from Spain (£12.95),
which offers a whistle-clean alternative to sauvignon
blanc; a light, approachable xinomavro from Greece,
which is a fantastic summery substitute for pinot noir;or Sicily’s floral and peppery nerello cappuccio (M&S
has a great example in its Found range for £7).
In some cases the trend has been driven by climate
change, for example Bordeaux’s decision to allow
the planting of several new grape varieties, including
marselan and castets, which can withstand the rising
temperatures. Meanwhile, cinsault, which thrives in
the heat, has been enjoying an upswing in fortune
in places such as southern France and South Africa.
In Portugal there is a move to rediscover native
varieties: touriga nacional not only makes fine port
but interesting red table wines as well.
As we step into May we begin to crave lively, crisp
whites and light, refreshing reds. But rather than opting
for all-too-familiar sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc and
gamay, why not embrace something more esoteric?
Wines that express their individuality may provoke
discussion and, of course, have the ability to surprise n- 2020 Terra Madre Co-op, £6.50 (12.5%) Sicily
A flavoursome, organic, unfiltered wine made from
the catarratto grape. Slightly hazy, it has a creamy
texture, distinct orange peel and a pithy bite. - 2018 Valle Hermoso Maule Valley Pais Aldi, £6.99
(13%) Chile A lighter-style red with some lovely tart
fruit flavours married with spicy, herbaceous notes. - Taste the Difference Pignoletto DOC Vino
Spumante Brut NV Sainsbury’s, £9 (11%) Italy
A slightly drier, more serious alternative to prosecco,
made from grechetto grapes grown between Modena
and Bologna. Perfumed with a green apple character.
4. 2020 Rémi Benon Beaujolais Blanc Tanners,
£13.50 (13%) France Chardonnay-based white
beaujolais is the insider’s choice. This one is pale gold,
with concentrated citrus notes and a crisp, dry finish.
5. 2019 Müller-Catoir Haardt Scheurebe The Wine
Society, £16 (12.5%) Germany Scheurebe is a good
alternative to sauvignon blanc. Full of racy acidity,
this has attractive grapefruit and pineapple flavours.
6. 2020 Disznoko Tokaji Dry Furmint Lea &
Sandeman, £14.50 (13%) Hungary The furmint grape
variety has an almost electric acidity. This wine makes
a lively aperitif or a good match for light, spicy dishes.
123 456Bargain
of the
weekJASON ALDEN
The Sunday Times Magazine • 45