Araki has had his fair share of incredulous
attention: first, at his eponymous Mayfair
restaurant quietly attaining three Michelin
stars. But mostly at how he has redefined
culinary exclusivity – even by Mayfair
standards – with just 10 covers, a nightly
performance of sushi theatre, his insistence
that ‘every seat is at the chef’s table’ and
a set menu generating a bill that will make
the eyes water every bit as much as his
wasabi, grated for your front-row delight.
My expectation was of an ego as high as
Mount Fuji and more self-belief than any
wannabe sushi sous. But, in fact, Chef
Araki is overflowing with quintessentially
Japanese modesty, humility and gentle
courtesy. Graciousness pervades the whole
restaurant on a sunny, crisp November
morning; tatami screens, pots of orchids
and staff quietly going about their
business create a Zen-like stillness as Araki
approaches me in an unstarry turquoise
tracksuit top, offering his hand in welcome.
The interview is conducted in an office
across a plain wooden table, its monotony
broken by a beautiful cup of green tea
marking my place – my first experience
of Araki’s traditional ‘sado’ hospitality, a
ceremonial way of considering a guest’s
every single need, creating a very special
experience akin to a tea ceremony.Unsurprisingly my first question concerns
Araki’s three stars in the 2018 Michelin
Guide, announced days before. Was it a
surprise? “It was a complete and wonderful
surprise. To be looked at by Michelin
with such high regard was a big honour,
especially in such a gastronomically
exciting city as London. I’m on the other
side of the world – in the ‘away’ team if you
like!” And fortunately, the accolade hasn’t
brought extra pressure to bear. “For me,
it’s not a big deal as I’m not chasing stars,
although it’s a great honour. I just continue
every day to do my best. That’s all I can do.”It’s some achievement. Having trained in
hotels in a famous onsen (hot springs)
district, Araki decided to spread his wings
and go to work in Australia at the age of 23.
“Japan is very one-cultured and I realised
Japanese food could take me anywhere in
the world as sushi had become a globalphenomenon.” He returned to Tokyo to
become a sushi master and met his mentor,
Takeaki Itoh – a very famous chef in the
upmarket Ginza district who had a huge
influence on the young Araki, encouraging
him to open his own restaurant in the city.Having won three Michelin stars, Chef Araki
chose to move to London in 2010 after his
daughter started boarding school in the UK.
“Bringing Japanese culture here was a huge
culture shock and a massive challenge. As I’m
my own boss I carry all the pressure on my
shoulders – my happiness was always going
to be on my first day here in London when we
opened. I will never forget the struggle to get
to this point and keeping that memory strong
is what keeps me going every day.
“I was excited by the excitement of exposing
customers to a new cuisine – just like a
child experiencing something for the first
time, they will always approach it with
reservations. But the food speaks for itself.
It’s honest. I serve what I think is delicious,
what works.“When I first visited London’s fish
restaurants I was impressed by the quality.