Chef – February 2018

(Rick Simeone) #1

Sous Chef, he was approached by Peter
McCann, impressed by the calibre of the
management team, Ed took the leap of faith
and returned to Ireland.
Initially he thought he’d give it three years,
the Four Seasons with whom he had a great
working relationship would have him back in
a heartbeat. Two decades later, Peter McCann,
Ed and the management team at the Merrion
Hotel, continue to set the bar as Dublin’s
landmark five-star location.
The hotel’s latest venue, the garden room
has been ten years in the planning. The
downturn among many other things delayed
the process. Finally the refurbishment of
the hotel, ongoing while it remained open,
started in 2015, on a new site backing on to
Baggot Street, adjacent to Merrion Street.
The work was finally completed in October
2017 and what an amazing space it now is.


The concertina glass doors open out into the
re-designed garden area allowing al fresco
dining during summer months. The whole
vista is light bright and airy, with the restaurant
area now overlooking the rectangular pond.

A glance at the very impressive (and
extensive) menu show that Ed Cooney’s
cuisine, has a strong Irish emphasis; a number
of Irish themed dishes include, Citrus Cooked
Clare Island Organic Salmon with Sweet and
Sour Celeriac and Loin of Kilkenny Veal with
Orange Pepper, Jerusalem Artichoke Puree,
Sage Veloute and Crispy Salsify.

Ed told me the new restaurant offers
casual dining, the hotel already has a two
star Michelin Restaurant attached to it,
restaurant Patrick guilbaud; As well as
Guilbauds and the Garden Room, the hotel

also has elegant drawing rooms offering
afternoon tea and larger rooms where they
hold functions, so every possible guest
requirement is adequately catered for.

With The Garden Room, the Merrion team
have set out to create an environment, where
guests can sit relax and enjoy a glass of wine
with a light snack or with something more
substantial, if they so desire. The focus is on
a simple style of food based around produce
supplied by Irish producers with whom Ed
has built a strong relationship. In the five
weeks since they opened they have done a
huge amount of covers, his aim is to have a
busy, buzzy, classy restaurant and given the
buoyancy in Dublin at the moment, in terms
of the business sector as well as the growing
tourist numbers, I have no doubt he will
achieve that objective.

A glance at the very impressive (and
extensive) menu show that ed Cooney’s
cuisine, has a strong irish emphasis; a
number of irish themed dishes include,
Citrus Cooked Clare island organic salmon
with sweet and sour Celeriac and loin
of Kilkenny veal with orange Pepper,
Jerusalem Artichoke Puree, sage veloute
and Crispy salsify.
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