training: leaviNg a legacY by gary hunter
Paul Bocuse has created a universal legacy.
I could have written a book about how he has influenced
my career and philosophies. I know many readers will feel
the same too. ‘Monsieur Paul’ stood at his kitchen alter
and opened the gate to global culinary achievement that
transcended french cuisinePaul Bocuse, who passed away in January at the age of ninety one, had an
undeniably irresistible culinary charisma which has touched the hearts of the
restaurant world. He was the ‘Pope of Chefs’, a household name, an icon and an
undisputed French missionary of cuisine. He was the epitome of what everyone
thought a grand French chef to be. Bocuse knew how the image of a tall
Toque Blanche, pristine chef whites, and Tricolour ribbon collar could represent
pure culinary devotion and mastery. The trademark pose of the crossed arms
implanted a sense of reverential grandeur. Of course, Bocuse was an apprentice
of Fernand Point, and he achieved the culinary shrine to match in the outskirts
of Lyon at his three starred L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges. He had held these
three stars for over fifty years.
This eminent chef has published numerous cook books. It was an introduction
to one of his books which not only compelled my interest in this great chef
many years ago, but it also played a formative part of my professional and
culinary development at an appropriate time in my career. Given to me as a
leaving present by my Head Chef, before I took up my first role as Sous Chef in
a new hotel opening, this book signaled the start of a journey, a new chapter
previously unconsidered had opened up before me. His dishes were not
complicated but they married basic culinary common sense with classical and
contemporary methods. There were no shortcuts, it meant sourcing the best
ingredients and using them to emphasize their natural flavours and perfectly
complement each other on a plate. He is famously quoted as saying “whether
classic or modern, there is only one sort of cooking, and that is good cooking”.
I first met this great chef when I was invited for a three day chocolate master
class at the Chateau de Vivier in Lyon, known as L’Institut de Paul Bocuse in
2003 having travelled over to France on many occasions but this was my first
time in Lyon. I had been selected as part of the very first team of worldwide
Chocolate Ambassadors for Barry Callebaut, and this chateau was a perfect
setting for the school that provided us with great imagination and inspiration
in our work. Essentially it also gave me a guide for directing a leading culinary
school back home in London, having just started my role of Head of Culinary
Arts at Westminster. In Lyon, this was an institution that I hadn't encountered
before but I was enchanted by its location and charm. More importantly it
gave me an insight to how culinary skills and knowledge should be delivered:
focused, current, challenging, relevant, and above all else with high standards
and expectations. The time spent here wasn't just about indulging with
some of the best chocolatiers from across the globe at that time (as much
as I loved it!), but it set my design to the way Westminster Kingsway College
should meet the future challenges of training and education for the hospitality
industry. The consummate knowledge of the tutors was imperative and had
to be consistently high. This quality compelled me to seek out our own new
tutors to raise the bar even higher, and continuing today we have culinary and
hospitality teachers who are very much at the vanguard of their own particular
specialist area. The students at the Institute were mainly fee paying, but
recognised that for all the barriers they had overcome to obtain a valued place
at this school, that this was their moment to achieve and start their careersouR FinGeRpRint
doesn't Fade
FRoM the pLates
we touCh