So where is the pocket fabric coming from? The back
shirttail! On average the shirttail from the waist to hem is
36cm (14¼in). Even if the trousers are worn on the hip,
there is still sufi cient to cut a section out and replace it with
a different fabric that will still not be seen once the shirt is
tucked in.
Unpick the hem of the shirttail and iron the hem allowance
completely l at.
NOTE: If the fabric is a check or stripe, place the pocket pattern on
the front of the shirt where it is to be stitched. Mark the stripes or
checks (only the most prominent ones) onto the pattern piece for
positioning on the shirt-tail; this ensures the pattern of the fabric
will line up when stitched in place.
Pin the pocket pattern to the shirttail and cut out.
See photo 2.
The replacement insert into the shirttail can be any fabric
of a similar type and weight to the shirt fabric. Pin the pocket
pattern to the insert fabric and add 2 x seam allowances to
each edge; this allows for a seam allowance on the insert and
the shirt and the stitching lines will match up. See photo 3.Reinforce the corners. Clip into each corner at a 45-degree
angle making sure not to cut the stitching.Pin the insert fabric to the shirt along the top edge.
See photo 4. Stitch in place, starting and ending at the
clipped corners. See photo 5. Overlock to neaten the edges,
see photo 6, folding the sides out of the way of the overlocker
blades to prevent cutting the garment.Pin the sides of the insert to the shirt, making sure the
corners are l at. See photo 7. Starting at the clipped corners,
stitch the sides together. Overlock both edges and press l at.3 45 6