Australian Stitches - June 01, 2018

Figure Focus

Creating curves

C il d he igure by

ulder line then

tle shaping

ot have a

mportant

ds that suit

e giving you

shoulder’.

d shoulder

sleeves is the

rement for the

e.

line should

ed with detail,

set-in sleeves,

ers, pleats

as fashion

oulder should

in dropped

ulders,

cut-in sleeves,

r any other

ess well

shoulder

stline needs

d’ with design

itting darts

g dei nition.

an be ignored

ggested but

be strongly

with heavy

eats or volumes

Do not place

unts of

nd around

ne area

ber, think

ed. If you

s, consider

ic belts that

ith the outit

sed to those,

stand out

ly in colour

xture.

ern size

selection

The main

itting concern

the mature

e mid-section

of the garment can be easily altered therefore it is ine for the

mature rectangle to purchase her pattern size in the usual

manner using bust and hips as a guideline.

Pattern alterations for the mature rectangle

The Midriff: The midriff includes the waist and the high

hipline. To alter for these areas on the pattern it is important

to determine how much wearing ease you prefer and where

exactly on the i gure the prominent curve exists. First, while

wearing your undergarments, mark your waistline with a

cotton tape. Measure the circumference of your waistline,

then measure down th

depth of your high-hip

the depth of this area,

these areas of the garm

(2in) wearing ease if y

subtle curves.

In order to determin

adjustment is required

measure the waist and

hip on the paper patte

determine how much

needed. See diagram 3

The amount of adju

where you do it will d

the proportions of you

If you have a promine

two thirds of the adjus

is required to the fron

garment and the rema

third to the back. If yo

are more balanced, yo

adjust your paper patt

front and back. The ‘b

and-slide’ technique w

the best for this adjust

That is, box out the ar

be adjusted as shown

the diagrams then slid

out the pattern tissue b

half the total amount

required. You will ind

it is necessary to true-u

seam allowances on th

outer edges of the box

Please note that if you

ind the box-and-slide

technique adds the

right amount of fullne

at the high hip but too

much at the waistline,

reduce the waist throu

darts and/or the side s

See diagram 4.

If only a small adjustm

required, you can alter

pattern through the ex

midriff darts and by u

some of your seam allo

Curves are easily created on the

developing a good strong sho

following through with subt

at the waistline. If you do no

square shoulder,itwill beim

for you to ind shoulder pad

yourbody proportion while

the impression ofa‘s

Combining a good

padwith set-in s

minimum requir

mature rectangl

The shoulder

always be deine

whichincludes

epaulettes, gathe

or yoke details,

dictates. Thesho

notbe encasedi

or extended sho

kimono sleeves,

raglan sleeves or

soft styling (unl

supportedwith

pads). The wais

to be ‘suggested

lines and body-

without strong

The hipline ca

or mildlysug

should not b

emphasised

gathers, ple

offabric.D

heavy amo

fabric in an

the waistli

• rememb
  streamlin
  love belts
  self-fabri
  blend wi
  as oppo
  whichs
  strongl
  and te

Patte

i

for

rectangle is the midriff section of theigure. Th

f th t b il lt d th f it

Vogue V1396

he body from the waist to locate the

p or tummy line. Once you have located

measure the circumference. Each of

ment will require a minimum of 5cm

ou are aiming for

ne how much

d, lat-pattern

d ‘your’high-

ern; this will

a utmt ent is

3.

stment and

epend upon

ur igure.

nt tummy,

stment

t of the

ining one

our curves

u can

tern evenly

ox-

works

tment.

rea to

in

de

by

d that

up

he

x.

e

ss

o

ugh

eams.

ment is

r your

xisting

tiliising

owances

Vogue V1382