in the know.
TASTE TEST WORDS: PHOEBE STONE. BOOK REVIEWS: SUSAN LOW
HOT N EW COOK BOOKS
A TABLE IN VENICE:
RECIPES FROM MY HOME
Author Skye McAlpine
is British by birth but
has lived in Venice since
childhood, absorbing
the city’s rich history
and food culture. The
home-style recipes and
photography are gorgeous,
as is Skye’s writing.
A beautiful, evocative
book for armchair
travellers and food lovers.
£26, Bloomsbury
JAPAN: THE COOKBOOK
Phaidon’s books are always
stunning and this one, written
by California-born Nancy
Singleton Hachisu, is no
exception: understated
photography and styling,
plenty of history and context,
and beautiful recipes for
everything from soups
and stir-fries to one-pots
and noodles. This isn’t
‘Japan-lite’; it’s the real
deal for Japanophiles.
£29.95, Phaidon, out 6 April
THE SOURDOUGH SCHOOL
Baker, author and teacher
Vanessa Kimbell runs
sourdough-baking
courses from her home in
Northamptonshire and this
well researched and
beautifully photographed
book is based on what she’s
taught her students. The clear
step-by-step photography
makes keeping sourdough
starters alive and baking
great bread look easy.
£19.99, Kyle Books, out 5 April
PRAWN ON THE LAWN: FISH
AND SEAFOOD TO SHARE
Authors Rick and Katie
Toogood own the combined
fishmonger’s and seafood
restaurants Prawn on the
Lawn in north London (see
p11) and Padstow in Cornwall.
These recipes for tapas-style
dishes, with plenty of Asian
and Euro influences, are
fuss-free and flavour-packed.
The book takes the fear factor
out of seafood cookery.
£18.99, Pavilion Books
THE TASTE TEST GREEK & GREEK-STYLE YOGURTS
HOW WE TEST
We conduct our tests without
packaging, so our tasters
don’t know who produced
each product or how much it
costs. And to prevent one
tester influencing another, the
panel aren’t allowed to confer
during the tests, so the results
you read here are unbiased.
WHAT WE LOOKED FOR
Greek yogurt contains only
milk and live/active cultures,
and has been strained of much
of the whey. Although it doesn’t
have Protected Destination of
Origin status, Greek yogurt
sold in the UK must have been
made in Greece. If made
elsewhere it must be called
Greek-style yogurt (and may
be thickened artificially). Good
strained yogurt should be
thick, creamy and smooth with
a characteristic sour tang.
GREEK YOGURT GREEK-STYLE YOGURT
SUPERMARKET
WINNER
M&S Greek
Yogurt, £2.20
for 450g
Immense body
and creaminess
without being
dense. Nice
tartness and
an appealing
snowy-white
appearance
make it the
overall winner.
SUPERMARKET
RUNNER-UP
Waitrose 1
Greek Natural
Strained Yogurt,
£1.89 for 500g
An exceptionally
creamy, dairy-
rich yogurt
that’s full of
flavour. This
is refreshing,
with a subtle
sharpness.
BRANDED WINNER
Yeo Valley Organic
Greek Style
Natural Yogurt,
£1.80 for 450g
Acidic tang
balanced by lush
creaminess and
great flavour.
The smooth
texture makes it
a perfect match
for granola and
cereal. Major
supermarkets
BRANDED
RUNNER-UP
Tims Dairy
Greek Style
Natural Yogurt,
£1.85 for 500g
Tangy with a
good flavour
and whipped
cream texture.
It’s nicely rich
but contains
cream and milk
solids. Asda,
Ocado, Waitrose
SUPERMARKET
RUNNER-UP
Asda Greek Style
Natural Yogurt,
80p for 500g
A fluid, smooth
yogurt with a
moreish lactic
flavour and
clean finish.
A good choice
for whizzing
into fruity
smoothies. →
SUPERMARKET
WINNER
Aldi Brooklea
Greek Style
Natural Yogurt,
68p for 500g
This yogurt
has a medium-
thick texture
with a fresh
almost citrussy
flavour and
well rounded
aftertaste.
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