delicious UK – April 2018

the residency.

ONE IS NEVER

ENOUGH

Miso caramel

banoffee éclairs

Afewnotesonturning sugar
into liquid gold
Makingcaramelathomecanbeasourceof
anxiety–mostlybecauseitcanbecapricious.
Itcancrystallise,burnor,worsestill,burn
you.HereareafewtricksI’velearnedover
the years that have finally given me the Midas
touch where sugar is concerned:

• Useaheavy-basedpanthatkeepsasteady
  temperature; using a thin, flimsy pan with
  hot spots is courting disaster.
  •Addwatertothesugar.Puristsmakedry
  caramelbymeltingsugaralone–Ifindadding
  enough water to saturate the sugar makes it
  meltmoreeasilyandcookmoreevenly.


• Cookcaramelonalowtomediumheat.


• Don’t be tempted to stir it – simply tilt
  and swirl the pan so the melting sugar
  dissolves without dry patches. Stirring is
  alsotheroadtodreadedcrystallisation.
  •Givethemeltingsugartheundivided
  attention of a devoted lover. Caramel can go
  frompaleambertoburntmahogany in
  seconds if your eyes wander.