NEWS 4 STEWS
Marc Fosh Michelin Starred Chef
The Right Way to Cook
Fresh, tender vegetables are a
true product of the soil and if
you get lucky, a real labour of
love from the gardener.
Packed with flavour and
nutrients, fresh vegetables
are an important part of our
diet. However, I think that
all too often, vegetables
are the victims of clumsy
cooks, overcooked until all
their texture and flavour has
disappeared. It’s a shame as
the taste of fresh, perfectly
cooked vegetables is one of
life’s great pleasures. To get the
full nutritional benefit, cook
vegetables as lightly as you
can, and as soon as possible
after buying them, as this helps
to retain not only the flavour,
but also the valuable nutrients.
It is impossible to be precise
about the cooking times of
every vegetable but here are
a few tips to help you on your
road to vegetable perfection....
Starchy vegetables such as
potatoes and root vegetables
will toughen if put straight
into boiling water. Therefore
they should be started in cold,
salted water and gradually
brought to the boil. Green
vegetables are generally
better boiled. The secret is to
use as little water as possible
and avoid overcooking so all
the vitamins and flavour are
retained. Steaming vegetables
is the best way of retaining
flavour, colour and vital
nutrients. Just be careful not
to overcook them as this will
make them limp and tasteless.
There are two ways to steam
vegetables: either place them
loosely in a steamer and cover,
or to steam them in their
own juices, wrap in baking
parchment or foil then cook in
the oven at 180°C, gas mark
4 for 20 minutes until tender.
This last technique is ideal
for delicate produce, such
as asparagus and
baby vegetables.
Roasting isn’t just for potatoes
- root vegetables, pumpkins
and tomatoes all taste
wonderful cooked this way.
Roasting works by intensifying
flavours and causing natural
sugars to caramelise, creating
a crisp outer coating and a
tender centre. For the best
results, preheat the oven to
220°C, gas mark 7 and if you’re
using root vegetables, preheat
the cooking oil for a crisp
finish. Cut large vegetables into
even-sized chunks and toss
in olive oil and fresh herbs, if
you wish. Stir-frying uses very
little oil and cooks vegetables
quickly, so they keep their
texture and taste. Cut the
vegetables into small, even-
sized pieces; add a little oil to
a preheated wok or frying pan
and heat until just smoking.
Start with the vegetables that
need the longest cooking and
keep stirring as they cook.
Don’t overfill the pan, as they
will steam rather than fry -
cook in batches instead. If you
are adding a sauce, do so at
the very end, then toss to coat
and serve immediately.
When at the market, look for
crisp vegetables with brightly
coloured leaves. Go for firm
skins and unblemished flesh
(but remember, organic
produce often doesn’t look
pristine). Avoid vegetables with
brown patches, wilted or slimy
leaves, bruised or pulpy flesh.
But don’t be put off by odd-
shaped vegetables - sometimes
these can be the tastiest.
Food harvested in its natural
season and environment has a
depth of flavour that surpasses
anything that’s travelled far
or been grown out of season.
Purchasing locally grown, in-
season vegetables also greatly
reduces the environmental
cost and helps support
local producers.
Rigatoni Gratin with Roasted
Mediterranean Vegetables
Ingredients (serves 4)
175g Rigatoni pasta, cooked
20g Grated Parmesan, for the
topping
For the roasted vegetables:
2 medium courgettes
1 small aubergine
450g tomatoes, skinned
1 medium onion, peeled
1 small red pepper, deseeded
1 small yellow pepper,
deseeded
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and
chopped
50g pitted black olives,
chopped
4 anchovy fillets, drained and
chopped
1tbsp capers
salt and freshly milled black
pepper
Chop the tomatoes, onion,
courgettes, aubergine and
peppers into 4 cm chunks.
Arrange all the vegetables on
the baking tray and sprinkle
with the olive oil and chopped
garlic. Season with salt and
pepper, and roast in the
oven for 30-40 minutes, until
browned.
For the cheese sauce:
500ml milk
30g plain flour
30g butter
50g Parmesan cheese, finely
grated
seasoning
For the cheese sauce:
Place the milk, flour and butter
into a medium saucepan and
place it over a gentle heat.
Then, using a the whisk,
stir gently while bringing it
to a gentle simmer. Whisk
continually until you have
a smooth glossy sauce, and
simmer very gently for 5
minutes. Then add the cheese
and whisk again, allowing it to
melt. Then season to taste.
Combine the cooked pasta with
the roasted vegetables, olives,
anchovies, capers and cheese
sauce. Layer the mixture into a
gratin dish, sprinkle with grated
Parmesan. Bake in the oven for
another 6-8 minutes and serve.
Papas Arrugadas
This is an unusual way to cook
tiny, new potatoes from The
Canary Islands.
Ingredients (serves 6-8)
2kl new potatoes
1.5l water
250g coarse sea salt
Clean well the potatoes,
leaving the skin on. Place them
in a saucepan and cover them
with the water and salt. Cook
for 15-20 minutes until the
potatoes are just cooked. Drain
the potatoes and return to the
same saucepan with no liquid.
Place them over a moderate
heat and turn them over 2 or 3
times. The salt will stick to the
potatoes and they will become
“wrinkly”.
Serve with mojo picon.
Mojo Picón
6 garlic cloves
350ml olive oil
100ml sherry vinegar
1tsp Ground cumin
2 red chilli peppers (de-seeded)
2tsp Paprika
Pinch of Sea salt
Place all the ingredients in a
food processor and blend to
a smooth paste. Place in an
airtight container and chill
until required.