68 Asia-Pacific Boating March/April 2015 Asia-Pacific Boating March/April 2015 69DESTINATION
In the six hours aft er leaving Phuket, we saw countless tall and slender
limestone islets, anchored briefl y to do a little snorkelling off tiny Koh
Khai Nai – a popular day trip from Phuket – and arrived at our chosen
destination for the night: Koh Phi Phi Don, the largest and most populated
of the stunning Phi Phi Island group. We saw little traffi c but along the
way had to keep our eyes out for the myriad of
fi sh traps, usually marked with small fl ags.
Surrounded by steep limestone cliff s on
the west, Ton Sai Bay provides excellent
anchorage year-round. Aft er tying up to a
mooring buoy in about 10 metres of water,
we took great pleasure in diving off the boat
into the crystal-clear, turquoise sea. Aft er a
cooling off period and a change of clothes, we
climbed into our 11-foot RIB and headed to the
nearby beach to explore the village basking in
the late aft ernoon sun.
Although not exactly peaceful, the small
town is laid back and packed with places along
the beach and inland to eat, drink and shop.
Th e strip along the beach was less crowded and
the view from the restaurant where we stopped
for drinks and snacks was magnifi cent. Aft er
watching the sun sink behind the limestone hills,
we wandered back through the narrow streets,
stopping at random shops along the way to check
out the local goods. Deciding we would cook
dinner on the boat, we made our way back slowlyacross the bay, watching carefully for other boats, oft en unlit, that
were coming and going.
Aft er exploring the town further the next morning and stopping for
a leisurely al fresco brunch, we left in the early aft ernoon for nearby
Maya Bay on Koh Phi Phi Le that was the setting for the 2000 LeonardoDiCaprio movie, Th e Beach. Th is was by far the most crowded place
we visited, although the day-trippers on their tourist boats disappear
by 4pm. Th is is the best time to arrive, as it’s easy to snag a mooring
when those boats start to leave in droves. It is best to take a mooring if
staying the night, as there is only limited anchorage in 15-20 metres of
water in the mouth of the bay – anchoring on the delicate coral bank
should be avoided at all costs.
Th e constant fl ow of tourists has damaged the coral reef, but
snorkelling is still rewarding with plenty of large reef fi sh such as
parrotfi sh, coral grouper and moray eels. But the most notable aspect
by far is the breath-taking location, with its steep cliff s, sandy beaches
on three sides, and its still, mirror-like water.
Heading another 40 miles south, we found pleasant and
mellow Koh Ngai. We set the anchor on the east side of the island in
8m of water, close enough to the beach to hear music from one of
the clubs as we enjoyed the setting sun from the comfort of our
breeze-cooled deck.
Soon aft er leaving Koh Ngai, on our way to Koh Rok, we stopped to
explore the famed Th am Morakat or “emerald cave”. A popular spot for
tourists, it’s desirable to wait until late aft ernoon, or go quite early in the
morning to visit this hauntingly beautiful spot. Th e only way to reach
the tiny, enclosed beach is to swim 80 metres through a pitch-black
cave. Th e swim is short, but a waterproof fl ashlight is a must. Visit in
the daytime and the place will be packed. Wave aft er wave of tourists are
towed back and forth, spaced out evenly along long, knotted ropes – a
curious and rather entertaining sight. Once at the little beach, the soaring
fl ora-covered walls surrounding it give the place an emerald glow,
hence the name.66-73 Destinations.indd 68-69 07/03/15 2:24 pm