Practical_Boat_Owner_-_November_2015_

(Marcin) #1

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Here’s just a selection of the latest questions from
PBO readers. Email or write to the address on
page 5 and our experts will answer your queries

THE PBO EXPERTS To ask a question email [email protected] and include your address. Pictures are helpful


SEA SAFETY
Will Stephens is
Staff Officer
Operations (Coastal
Safety) at the RNLI

CRUISING
Stuart Carruthers
is the RYA Cruising
Manager and has
sailed extensively

SAILS
Ian Brown of the
International
OneSails loft group
is an expert on sails

ELECTRICS
Paul Holland is
chairman of the
BMEA and MD of
Energy Solutions
(UK)

MASTS & RIGS
Mike Coates worked
in the spar and
rigging business for
many years

ENGINES
Pat Manley is
a diesel engine
course instructor
and marine author

SURVEY AND
CORROSION
Colin Brown runs
a marine survey and
consultancy company,
CB Marine Services

BOAT BUYING
David Harding is a
regular contributor
to PBO: his photo
archive is at http://www.
sailingscenes.co.uk

ENGINES ELECTRICS


Going round in circles


Q


While cruising in the Bristol Channel recently in my twin-diesel
1988 Fairline Sunfury I suffered a fuel blockage on my port
engine, which would then only tick over at 7 50rpm, unable to run at
higher revs. I wasn’t worried – with twin engines I’d surely get home
on one no trouble. Except... if I took my starboard engine above
1,200rpm the boat just went in circles, leaving me at about 5 knots
with very little steerage in a large, busy shipping channel with 5-knot
currents. Have you any advice how, with a twin-engine setup, you
should manage on one engine? Perhaps I can make some
modifications to rectify the problem should it arise again (though
hopefully it won’t – I’ve cleaned the tank and changed all the filters).
Rebecca Richards, by email


Rebecca Richards wonders how best to control a twin-engine Fairline
Sunfury like this on only one engine


PAT MANLEY REPLIES: With
only half the normal power
available, your boat will not be
able to get up on the plane, so
maximum speed will be severely
restricted – 8 or 9 knots might be
all you’ll manage. With the dead
engine’s leg in the water, there will
be a lot of drag from both the leg
and the prop, even if the failed
engine is running at 750rpm. The
boat will naturally, then, want to
turn towards the dead engine.
The best thing to do is to raise
the leg of the dead engine to
its highest position, hopefully
completely out of the water, to
eliminate its drag. Then increase
the rpm very slowly on the good


Q


I’m seeking an opinion
on my proposal for
charging batteries on my
7 .6m (25ft) sailing yacht.
I have a split-charge diode
rated at 7 0A, to which is
connected a 50A alternator. In
order to run a peltier coolbox
(as I don’t have room for a
compressor fridge) I intend to
buy two new service batteries
and connect them in parallel
so that I have
approximately 200Ah
of capacity. Would you
recommend that I
connect my solar
panels, two at 10W
each and diode-
protected from reverse
current, in parallel to
the split-charge diode
and, when 230V mains
is available, connect a
25A charger to the same
place? Under normal
circumstances my boat lies
on a swinging mooring so
mains electricity is not
normally available, hence
the solar panels.
Kevin Mullins, by email

PAUL HOLLAND REPLIES:
Connecting the solar panels in
parallel to the input side of the
diode splitter will mean that
both batteries are charged
when the sun shines. However,
the downside is that you get a
voltage drop across a diode,
which will slightly reduce the
voltage that the battery will see.

http://www.boatgear.info

engine, steering as necessary to
keep straight until you are going
as fast as possible and still
running straight ahead. In this
condition, turning the boat
towards the good engine will
require you to reduce rpm first, so
forward planning will be necessary.
To save money, manufacturers
will often fit a power steering
pump on only one engine, so with
the ‘wrong engine’ failed, steering
can be a problem at higher speed.
Next time you are out in your boat,
you could try some single engine
handling practice so that you are
familiar with how your boat
responds at different speeds
and power settings.

A fair system of charges?


You don’t say what voltage the
panels are: if they are nominal
12V panels then they will charge
a battery, but not as effectively
as they would if controlled via a
solar charge regulator. If you
were to use that you could also
operate the two panels in series,
which would ensure charging
continues to happen at lower
light levels.
Without a regulator the output

voltage is dependent on light
levels. When the light level
drops the panel is still capable
of delivering power, but the
voltage is too low to drive
current into the battery. If you
put two panels in series (with
a regulator) the panels will
continue to put useful energy
into the batteries at much lower
light levels. The solar regulator
has an integral DC-DC converter
function that maintains the solar
panels at the best operating
voltage to maximise their
output while (on the battery
side) providing the correct
charging voltage to maintain
your batteries.
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