T
he west coast of Italy is blessed with some
of the fi nest harbours and most beautiful
islands in the Mediterranean. More than
halfway down from Genoa, opposite the middle
of Sardinia, Campania province has the
stunning Bay of Naples as its centrepiece.
This dazzling theatre of history is dominated
by the shadow of Vesuvius, a picture-book,
slightly menacing volcano a few miles inland.
On the south side of the bay, the rugged Sorrento Peninsula juts
out towards the romantic island of Capri, whose cliffs soar far above
the rich blue sea. Off the north arm of the bay are two more islands,
tiny Procida and much larger Ischia with its
soothing subtropical vibes. A short cruise out to
the west you reach the scattered Pontine
Archipelago, where even by Italian standards
time turns slowly in the picturesque harbours of
Ponza and Ventotene.
Naples itself is a noisy cultural melting pot
which engages all your senses at once. It is a city
of contrasts, where gracious piazzas, opulent
palaces and ornate churches are set against
warrens of narrow streets whose urban poverty
is relieved only by shafts of bright sunshine. You
can sample these vivid impressions from one of
Naples’ well-appointed marinas around the bay.
But the place to begin a Campania cruise is on
the south side of the Sorrento Peninsula, where
the Amalfi Coast looks across the glittering Gulf
of Salerno. From offshore this dramatic spur
seems to rise sheer from the sea, with sparse
villages clinging to its cliffs. As you get closer,
more looming layers emerge from the haze, as
the peaks of Monti Lattari rise to 1,500 metres. At the head of its gulf,
Salerno is an attractive cruising base and a favourite of mine because
the place feels so pleasantly ordinary.SUNNY SALERNO
Salerno has three marinas – Porto Nuovo nearest the centre, Porto
Turistico further along the seafront, and the new 1,000-berth Marina
d’Arechi, three miles south-east of Salerno (see Marina of the Month,
p74). They’re not expensively trendy and you can genuinely relax before
tackling the livelier ports of call around the corner. Backed by shelteringhills, Salerno has a bustling commercial harbour and one of the sunniest
climates in Italy. The town is not too touristy and the old quarter is a
delightful maze of back streets and gently crumbling buildings.
The long promenade is lined with palms and in the evenings
locals are out strolling, watching and being watched. At sunset the
chatter rises to a crescendo, especially around card tables in the
waterside gardens. You can easily linger several days to absorb this
carefree atmosphere. Salerno is also a convenient place to leave a
boat if you fancy visiting the eerie excavated ruins at Pompeii, 40
minutes away by train.FOOD AND DRINKS
Naples is the birthplace of pizza
margherita, first created in 1889 at
the city’s Brandi Pizzeria for Queen
Margherita of Savoy. This Neopolitan
classic reflects the colours of the
Italian flag – red tomatoes, white
mozzarella and green basil. The venerable
Brandi is still going strong in Salita
Sant’Anna di Palazzo.
Capri citrus growers are said to have
invented the delicious digestivo
Limoncello, a clean lemon liqueur which is
perfect after dinner, especially sipped on a
balmy terrace overlooking the Gulf of
Naples. Limoncello should be served ice
cold from the fridge, never with ice in it.Photo
: funkyfood London - Paul Williams / Alamy Stock PhotoThe fashionable resort of
Positano, home to many
enviable holiday villas
Enticing Amalfi sprawls
along the azure coast