PHOTOGRAPH: XXXXXXApril 2016 | http://www.boatinternational.comA
huge black mainsail towers monolithically above our
launch and the plaintive cry of sheets on the winches
carries across the water as the sleek Wally superyacht
Galma glides through turquoise water. Suddenly, there
is a cry of “lee-ho!” and a burst of action as the boat tacks and its
spinnaker unfurls to reveal a Polynesian warrior’s mask.
The 29 metre sloop is part of a fleet of five Maxi 72s and 11 Wallys
taking part in the Menorca Maxi Regatta in May 2015. They race
along a remarkable coastline on the south west of the island, sailing
dramatically close to limestone cliffs punctured by little grottoes and
topped with two-storey buildings, the limit under Menorca’s planning
regulations and a far cry from the towers of Palma de Mallorca.
As they round the bottom of the island, the yachts have to avoid
the small Illa de l’Aire, which sits like a loaf of rustic bread just off
Punta Prima. Cormorants stand on rocks by the lighthouse, staring
bemusedly at the giant winged creatures skimming across the sea.
Soon we come in sight of the sprawling 19th century Fortress ofIsabel II at the mouth of the port of Mahón, the largest natural harbour
in the Mediterranean. As the flotilla turns into the 5km long inlet,
the lack of development is striking as the hay bale-dotted fields of the
La Mola peninsula stretch down to the water.
Closer to Mahón itself, small ports such as Es Castell reveal
themselves. And ahead is Illa del Rei, or Bloody Island, the site
of a naval hospital during British rule, from 1708 to 1802. It was
a turbulent period during which this safe haven, capable of protecting
an entire fleet, was a major strategic prize. Admiral Nelson kept
a house on Bloody Island but was often to be found in another
residence above the port, visiting a lady – reports differ as to whether
it was his official mistress, Emma Hamilton, or a local woman.
After the yachts have moored stern-to in the port of Mahón itself,
the owner-helmsman of Galma takes a seat on the quayside and
sips a bottle of mineral water. Alberto Palatchi, CEO of the bridal
clothing chain Pronovias, has been coming to Menorca for 23 years.
“This island is unique,” he says. “The preservation of its nature –ON THE
QUIET SIDE
One celebrated and frequent visitor calls it “the island of peace”. So what is it
that makes Menorca the envy of its noisy neighbours? Chris Madigan finds outVoyage
PHOTOGRAPHS: JESÚS RENEDO; GETTY; ALAMY; ROBERT HARDING; SHUTTERSTOCK