Lakeland_Boating_-_September_2016

(Greg DeLong) #1
FILTER PHOTO COURTESY OF RACOR

FILLING UP PHOTO COURTESY OF BOATU.S.

DELIVERY SYSTEM PHOTO BY GARY REICH

SYSTEM CHECK
All set with a full tank of fuel? Great. Now it’s time to
give your entire fuel system a detailed inspection, focusing
in on hoses and hose clamps, for starters. You’ll want to
follow your entire fuel delivery system, from the tank all
the way to each engine (and don’t forget your generator,
if you have one).
Things to look for include: Cracking or splitting
of the hoses; fuel leaks; excessive rust or corrosion
on clamps; and clamps that are loose. Replace
any suspect pieces with the properly-rated fuel
hose and top-quality hose clamps. Be sure to
also check your fuel vent hoses and the fuel vents
themselves. Spiders and other insects often nest
in fuel vents, causing them to clog.

FILTER CHANGE
Every single one of our engine experts recommend
changing the primary fuel filters while winterizing.
The most common type of primary fuel filter found
on boats is called a water-fuel separator, and it’s

mounted somewhere between the
fuel tank and the engine. Some boats
may even have two installed.
On outboard boats and boats
with smaller inboards, this filter
is typically a small screw-on filter
that looks a lot like an oil filter,
but with a clear or opaque plastic
“sight” glass beneath it. Usual
maintenance involves draining
any water in the sight glass before unscrewing the whole
affair, and then replacing the screw-on filter element.
Bigger boats — or those with inboard or diesel engines
— may have larger water-fuel separators/filters mounted
inside the boat that should also be drained and changed.
Onboard fuel filters on both inboard and outboard
engines (often referred to as secondary filters) should be
changed in accordance with the engine manufacturer’s
maintenance schedules. Today’s modern four-stroke
outboards, for example, can have as many as 20 different
onboard fuel filters with varying replacement intervals;
unfortunately, many of them can only be changed with
proprietary tools. Inboard gasoline and diesel engines
are often not as complex, but their filters generally have
scheduled replacement intervals. Check with your local
engine shop if you’re in doubt as to when these onboard
engine fuel filters need swapping.

THAT

,
S A WRAP
There may be some intricacies in your own
fuel system that you’ll have to discover on
your own, but sticking with the essentials we’ve
discussed should give you a good foundation to
get your fuel system winterized. Do it correctly
to get moving quickly come spring. ★

FILLING UP PHOTO COURTESY OF BOATU.S.

mounted somewhere between the
fuel tank and the engine. Some boats

PREP YOUR FUEL SYSTEM


FOR
WINTER.

-> BY GARY REICH


fuel tank and the engine. Some boats

On outboard boats and boats
with smaller inboards, this filter

any water in the sight glass before unscrewing the whole
affair, and then replacing the screw-on filter element.

mounted somewhere between the
fuel tank and the engine. Some boats

of the hoses; fuel leaks; excessive rust or corrosion
on clamps; and clamps that are loose. Replace
any suspect pieces with the properly-rated fuel
hose and top-quality hose clamps. Be sure to
also check your fuel vent hoses and the fuel vents
themselves. Spiders and other insects often nest

Every single one of our engine experts recommend
changing the primary fuel filters while winterizing.
The most common type of primary fuel filter found
on boats is called a water-fuel separator, and it’s

your own, but sticking with the essentials we’ve
discussed should give you a good foundation to
get your fuel system winterized. Do it correctly
to get moving quickly come spring.

You should inspect your entire fuel delivery system at layup
time, paying close attention to the condition of your fuel supply
hoses and hose clamps. Pictured here are two diesel fuel tanks,
supply lines, and primary fi lters (right) for a Cummins inboard
diesel engine.

Outboard engines commonly have a spin-on fuel
fi lter/water separator similar to this one fi tted
between the fuel tank and engine. The fi lter should
be replaced at layup time and the lower bowl
emptied of any water that is present.

Our engine
experts agree that fi lling up
your boat’s tank(s) at layup
time can help prevent a lot
of headaches come spring.

LAKELANDBOATING.COM | SEPTEMBER 2016 37

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