Yachting

MAY 2016 http://www.yachtingmonthly.com 31

A QUESTION OF

SEAMANSHIPSEAMANSHIPBill’s answer from p28

Probably their only hope is to use two

anchors to restrict their swinging circle.

Drop the bower anchor just below the

bridge, veer as much cable as space allows

then drop the kedge over the stern. Haul in

cable on the bower, veering on the kedge

until you have the right amount of scope

on the both anchors.

At this point there will probably be quite

a lot of slack in the kedge warp so you

will need to be careful not to let it snag on

the prop, rudder or skeg. Then walk the

inboard end of the kedge warp to the bow

and secure it. When the tide turns at low

water you should just pivot, drop back a

little and lie to the kedge, bows-to the tide.

Simply dropping the kedge over the

stern so that you lie stern-to the tide

would probably not be a particularly good

idea. Lying to a stern anchor tends to be

an unhappy experience. The boat veers

around, putting a lot of weight on the

anchor and tending to trip it.

‘No room in the anchorage?’

Mooring tips

There is a superb compendium

of sailing best practice online at:

http://www.yachtingmonthly.com/Berthon

Why not brush up on your knowledge?

Few people have as much experience as

Berthon Dockmaster, Dave Street.

Research and communication

‘Forward planning and knowledge of

marina layouts is key. Download Reeds UK

marina guide with your phone and look

at the marina’s website. Ensure you have

the VHF channel that the Dockmasters

use. Understand local tides and note wind

speed and direction. Anticipate these

things, use them to your advantage, but if

in doubt, ask a Dockmaster!’

General safety

Your crew must know the plan and what

they’re doing, lifejackets should be worn.

Communicate clearly and calmly. Never

jump onto a pontoon (step down holding

onto a guardrail or stanchion instead),

or throw ropes – that’s when accidents

often occur. Supervise children and don’t

let them perform mooring duties unless

they really know their role. Your spring

lines must be long enough to cover fore

and aft berthing, as many marinas don’t

have cleats amidships; lines must be free

running and clear of snags.’

In heavy weather...

‘Plan and organise the crew. High topsides

are affected by wind; deep keels by strong

tides. Practice using the bow thruster

(against a free mooring buoy in a tidal

river on a windy day is best). A long keel

is less receptive to small helm inputs at

low speeds than a fi n-keeler, but modern

hulls are more affected by a beam-on

breeze. Under power and at low speed, a

twin-rudder boat will have less steerage

and need more input on helm and throttle.

Practice in a quiet marina. When springing

off, ask yourself: if I remove this line, given

the wind direction and tide, what will the

boat do in response?'

Our Dockmasters have more than 90 years’

worth of local knowledge. Before your next

visit to Lymington, check our website:

http://www.Berthon.co.uk/Essential-guide-2016

A

Vyv Cox replies: I suspect that

the dimensions of many items

on modern production boats are

smaller than they were 30 years ago and that

loadings are often higher as yacht and rig

size increase. At the same time, stress levels

are calculated now, whereas on older boats

this was probably not the case, fi ttings being

selected on a ‘looks good enough’ basis.

Very many failures of components on long

passages are likely to be fatigue-related.

Many boats participating in the ARC or other

long-distance events have never before

been subjected to the loadings commonIy

generated for such long, continuous periods.

A yacht’s stress calculations may not include

conditions outside the design brief, such as

loadings due to omitted rigging toggles or

maintenance carried out incorrectly.

The photograph shows the lower spreader

of a new yacht that sailed around the world

three years ago. The loading of the lower

intermediate shroud is clearly not aligned,

forming an angle between itself and its

toggle due to incorrect installation. The load

is carried on only half of the cap shroud clevis

pin, which was therefore subject to twice the

design load and consequentially failed from

fatigue in Australia. Fortunately the owner

was able to rig an emergency arrangement

that kept the mast upright.

The message is clear – rigorous inspection

is needed before extended voyages, not only

for components that may be at the point of

wearing out, but also those that are potential

sites for fatigue failure.

How long for a

mooring line?

Q

I have bought my fi rst yacht, a new

Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 349.

I didn’t buy the builder’s standard-

spec docklines, as I thought I could do

better myself. Now, as I try to learn what

mooring ropes I should buy, I am completely

bemused by the contradictory information

from vendors on the Internet.

I think that I should be buying 12mm-

diameter lines of 1½ times the boat’s length,

but should I plump for polyester, nylon or

something else? Also, does it matter about

make? Should I go for a recognised brand or

will any cheap option will do?

John Simister

A

Tom Cunliffe replies: 1½ times the

boat’s length is a good starting point

for docklines. Four of those will get

you going. If funds are tight, you could opt

for just the boat’s length for breast lines, but

stick to 1½ for springs. I’m afraid you must

also stump up for two longer ropes for rafting

up and unforeseen contingencies.

For the springs and breast lines I prefer

octoplait polyester. 12mm might be strong

enough theoretically, but it’s way too small,

and here’s why: small ropes chafe more

quickly than big ones and they are far, far

nosier in fairleads when they graunch at

night. I’d go for 16mm and buy high-quality

rope. 14mm is the minimum. As for the longer

lines, these can be 12mm three-stand (14mm

would be better) and should you be feeling

fl eeced by the cost of the octoplait, you could

buy some cheap polypropylene. If you aren’t

hurting too much, make the long lines nylon;

it’s springiness and super-strength will stand

you in good stead in an emergency. If I were

you, I’d nip down to Beaulieu Boatjumble. It’s

a great place to source new ropes!

PHOTO: COLIN WORK

Octoplait might be more expensive, but it

makes very good mooring lines