Lonely Planet India - August 2016

Unfortunately my bank balance won’t support

my impulsive decisions. Any chance LPMI wants

to sponsor a trip to Iceland for a loyal reader?

• Bhakti via email
  Set in stone

The July 2016 issue held a special treat for me.

The feature on architecture in Delhi was brillant

(‘Pillar to Post’). Stories like these not only make

us aware of our cultural heritage but also make

us fall in love with it. Being an architecture buff

I was thrilled to find yet another story on the

history of important structures in urban areas.

Similarly an earlier article on Mumbai’s

architecture showed an unexplored layer

of the city (‘The City Beneath’ July 2011).

• Utpal GK Chennai

Uncovering secrets

Thank you for introducing us to two hidden

gems in the country. Warangal with its

forgotten stories and temples and of course

mouth-watering food was quite a treat! I had

no idea this place existed at all (Easy Trips

July 2016). I’m going to plan a visit and I will

make it a point to eat at Alankar Idli no matter

how early I have to wake up and how long

I have to stand in line. The other jewel

was Thenmala which looked so green and inviting for someone like me who loves treks and nature

trails especially in the rains (Easy Trips July 2016).

• Chinmay R via email

Letters

Here are your reactions and responses to Lonely Planet Magazine India: thank you!

SHARE WITH US

I have a suggestion. Why don’t you convert some

of your iconic covers (like the October 2015 issue

with Kenya as the cover story) into posters

or better still wallpapers for laptops as well

as Android/ iPhones and offer it to readers free

of cost? It’ll be a priceless gift to us readers.

• Jyoti Amritsar

Day-tripper

Lonely Planet Magazine India is a treasure trove

of travel trivia. Some of my best holiday ideas

have come from the magazine. My work doesn’t

allow me to take many holidays so whenever

I do get the chance to take some time off

I’m very careful about selecting a destination.

I prefer to make the most of each trip and that

means detailed planning. I love the concept

of day-trips that you sometimes recommend –

it allows me to discover two places for the price

of one airfare! Please suggest more day-trips

in the future for penny-pinchers like me.

• Shantanu Lucknow

Winter specials

I’ve been a regular

reader of your

magazine for about

five years now. I look

forward eagerly

to your winter special

issues each year

(Last-Minute Winter

Getaways and The

Winter List). They’re

full of amazing ideas like the October 2014

issue which had Peru on the cover and the Easy

Trips section too had incredible destinations.

The July 2016 issue was a fun read too. Iceland’s

Ring Road looks so inviting I’m very tempted

to pack up and go right now (‘The Magic Circle’).

All good things

Let me start with a big thank you for the spread
on Summer Coolers – a saviour on hot summer
weekends (World on your Plate; Jun 2016).
Every page of the China story was a painting
in itself and I really liked the Border Town part
of the article (‘Chinese Whispers’ Jun 2016).
I always believed that Egypt was only for history
geeks but after reading about the mint tea
the colourful shishas the Sun Festival and the
beautiful sunsets I feel like a devotee ready
for pilgrimage (‘Eyes on the Future’ Jun 2016).
The Postcards section is a peek into other
travellers’ tales. Every photograph was beautiful
in its own way but for me Lake Bled Slovenia
was truly mesmerising (‘On the Rise’ Jun 2016).

• Sangita Rani New Delhi

A priceless gift
I loved the cover
of the July 2016
issue. It instantly drew
me in! I’ve never seen
this avatar of Iceland

• dangerous yet
  intriguing. The
  splashes of red really
  added to the appeal.
  The only thing better
  than the cover was the lineup of stories on it.

Discovery

JOURNEYS OF

 (^) Trace Delhi’s Find your lineage through its architectureperfect island
 Ethiopia is a treasure trove of secrets
ICELAND Ÿ DELHI Ÿ PERFECT ISLANDS Ÿ ETHIOPIA
July 2016^150 A Times of India publication ICELANDand cook by the steam of a geyserfor otherworldly landscapes – Follow the Ring Road GET NATURAL IN 082-Cover Final-STAN_R1.indd 1 17/06/16 2:18 pm PeruFrom the majesty of Machu Picchu to the floating villages on Lake Titicaca (insert giggle here) this is where you should be this winter PLUS TEAM LPMI’S FAVE BEACHES best seen with icinghis candyland castles Home to Germany’s BAVARIA most-loved king and^ in photographsBeaches that dream of lounging on we^ RAJASTHANIntricately-painted havelistemples... the desert state’s top experiences scandalous^5 EASYWEEKEND TRIPSPACK UP AND GO! WinterListOur definitive guide to where you should soak up the sun (and snow) this season 150 The
October 2014
TRAVEL MAGAZINE OF THE YEARA Times of India publication
091-October Cover 2014-Anant_R1.indd 1 17/09/14 5:53 PM
GREAT FROMHyderabadGREAT FOR
Architecture and historyGO NOWWhile the rains have washed away
the dust from the ruins.
TURN OVER FOR ALL YOU NEED TO GET THERE

1. If walls could talk... remnants of the stone walls that once guarded the city2. With an old
   temple on the hill the lake near the WAS is a great place to catch the sunset3. The toranas tell
   the story of the Kakatiya dynasty at the sound-and-light show4. Breakfast

at Alankar Idli is a great start to your mornings 5. The amazing 1000-pillared temple (^)
Warangal Telanganawas chosen over her brothers as heir Once upon a time a brave princess THE FORGOTTEN EMPIREto the throne. She took her dynasty (^) (WAS)Archealogical Site at the Warangal sit unobserved Priceless artefacts
to dizzying heights and died fighting on the battlefield a grandmother at the age of 83. This was the 12th century and Rudramadevi was possibly the first female
ruler in India's history. For her efforts all she got is a dusty statue in the middle of the cacophony that is Warangal today. Warangal is just a short drive from
Hyderabad but not many are tempted to make the trip. The city’s struggle to integrate itself into modern-day India is very visible – in badly-made malls (^)
shiny business hotels and restaurants
that only serve Chindian and Continental. But just outside the city is a historical gem protected by the remnants of a centuries-old stone wall which
lifts Warangal above its average-ness. Here lie the ruins of the famed 12th-century Kakatiya dynasty. The Kakatiyas who ruled most of Southern India were
widely known for their progressive ways and had the Mughals not been driven to jealousy by their achievements history might have taken a different course.
to the Kakatiyas is the Archaeological Site6.30pm; The best place to get an introduction 10). The size of two football (WAS; 9.30am – Warangal^ fields it once housed the Swayambhava Temple Complextoranas intricately-carved walls and stunning sculptures are strewn all over like giant (gateways). Mammoth pillars enclosed by four pieces of Lego waiting to be put together by a crane. Only four of religious inscriptions were spared and it’s these that tell you the forgotten toranas devoid (^) tale. Set amid the WAS ruins the sound-and-light show takes you back 800 years to tell you the story of the dynasty that ruled this land (^) and 8.30pm; best 40 bucks you ever spent watching this show that you understand for over a century; it might be the 40). It is only after (7pm^
Rudramadevi’s struggle for acceptance
the working man’s lunch or at the tiny Shalimarfix for dinner Kanakiah Hotel to get your Hyderabadi biryani (see Where to Eat for all to sample the Hotel
details)the exterior wall will throw up ancient wells and crumbling gateways among quiet fields and work up an appetite. A brisk 4km morning walk around
for immensely soft ground spice chutney. You might have to fight for your plate but as the statue Alankar Idli – a little stall that does ghee idlis with a dry (^)
of Rudramadevi reminds you some things are worth fighting for.words sharan saikumar (^)
photographs vinobha nathan
or why the Kush Mahal nearby has huge sloping walls and how the 1000-pillared temple got its name. The cavernous Kush Mahal with its
immense vaulted ceiling still stands intact (dawn – dusk; ` 5) and the black basalt
1000-pillared temple is a landmark in itself. The three-shrined temple is laid out in an unusual cruciform shape making for an arresting sight. While (^)
today it has a disinterested priestblessing you with one hand as he talks on his phone with the other it was once the place where royal blessings (^)
were sought before major battles. are plenty more halts to be made including the For the temple trawler there Ekshila Temple next door (^)
the but for everyone else the other pleasures of Warangal are strictly of the culinary kind. Stay away from fancy restaurants Bhardrakali Temple by the water
and make your way to roadside dhabas like
3412 5
2
EASY TRIPS HardcoreHistory
036-037-ET_Warangal-Darshana_R1.indd 33-34 17/06/16 11:08 am
PHOTOGRAPHS: EVGENY KARANDAEV/ 123RF (NEGRONI) ILDIPAPP\ 123RF (PISCO SOUR) BON APPETIT\ ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (SINGAPORE SLING) PHOTOGRAPHS USED FOR REPRESENTATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY
Summer Coolers
GLOBETROTTER World on your Plate lots of ice to your drink will Don’t worry that adding ICE IT BABY!ICE
dilute it; rather adding more ice keeps the drink chilled so that the individual cubes don’t melt
(^1) than his standard Americano – a bartender for a stronger drink and the Negroni was born!Count Camillo Negroni asked Negroni Italy
1 shot (45ml) gin½ shot (22.5ml) Campari½ shot (22.5ml) sweet vermouth1 orange zest twistFill a cocktail shaker with ice.
Add the gin Campari and vermouth. Shake about 30 seconds till chilled.Serve garnished with the orange zest twist over ice.
(^2) made from grapes – are signature a Peruvian brandy-like liquor ingredients in this classic cocktail. Pisco SourEgg whites and Pisco –^ Peru (^)
2 shots (90ml) Pisco1 tsp sugarJuice of 1 limeWhite of one small egg
Combine the ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Top to fill the shaker with ice. Shake for 20 to 30 seconds.
Strain into a glass. 3 Singapore Sling This tropical cocktail Singapore
was invented by a bartender at the Raffles Hotel in Singapore. 1 shot (45ml) gin½ shot (22.5ml) Cointreau
1 shot (45ml) pineapple juiceJuice of ½ lime1 dash grenadineA splash soda water
A cherry pineapple triangle and orange slice for garnishFill a cocktail shaker with ice.Add the gin Cointreau pineapple
juice lime juice and grenadine. Shake about 30 seconds until well chilled.Strain into a tall glass filled with ice. Top with soda water.
Garnish with the fruit slices. 1
2
3
THESE COCKTAILS FROM ACROSS THE WORLD ARE PERFECT TO BEAT THE HEAT AND RAISE SPIRITS WHEN THE RAINS FINALLY COME
027-World on your plate June 2016-STAN.indd 33-34 17/05/16 7:14 pm
PHOTOGRAPHS: LONELY PLANET IMAGES ALAMY
Pillar
t o Po st
WORDS SHEENA DABHOLKAR I ILLUSTRATIONS SARITA B
I
T’SI kid it’s peak summer and the day is a scorcher. Who takes up a week-long assignment to get acquainted with the city’s structures in the blazing hot sun? on a cool afternoon in Delhi that I write this. (^)
enthusiast though if I’m being perfectly honest I don’t always love monuments. I’ll be the first to admit that Or she could be what you might call an architecture-This girl. She might be crazy.
in some destinations they are given far too much significance. Delhi thankfully is not one of them.one of India’s oldest constantly inhabited cities To get acquainted with the architecture in the capital
is to understand the timeline and history of Delhi. It is said that this was the site for a total of seven different cities over time so its architectural relics span many centuries. There’s a rock edict inscribed by the Buddhist
Emperor Ashoka of the Mauryan Empire from all the way back in 3rd century BC in a park in Kailash Colony; remnants of Lal Kot the first city from the 8th century in Mehrauli; and the more famous Indo-Islamic style
of architecture of the Delhi Sultanate and the Mughals that has left an indelible mark all over on the city. as public spaces often explored read relaxed prayed I’m fascinated by how its architectural wonders function (^)
and socialised in by both locals and visitors. Though abandoned structures have their own thrill I’m most drawn to living spaces a sentiment echoed by Mayank Austen Soofi the ‘Delhi Walla’ an author (^)
blogger and prolific Delhi chronicler who I meet in the city one evening. And the city’s buildings even its really old ones are teeming with life.Equally hard to miss though not as appreciated
are the British-era buildings that are scattered across the capital. And for those who really pay attention the post-Independence architecture that is so unique to the city; formidable in size and very very quirky. (^)
Take a trip through Delhi’s history via the buildings that make it what it is
The lovely Qila-e- Kunha Masjid within the Purana Qila
065-072-Delhi-STAN_R1.indd 1-2 17/06/16 11:23 am
Letter
of the
month
LETTERS MAY BE EDITED FOR CLARITY OR LENGTH
TROOPER BAG
Bombay Trooper an online product
design brand that manufactures offbeat
apparel products brings you the Trooper Bag.
This innovative canvas backpack is designed
keeping in mind all your needs from crazy
last-minute hikes to daily use. Made from
100 per cent organic cotton canvas it’s fitted
with brass hooks and carabiners to give
it a retro steampunk look. The bag features
a side-loading 14-inch laptop sleeve that
can be easily removed which makes life easier
at airport security check. The collapsible main
compartment can hold all your daily objects
and can expand up to 30 litres to transform
into an ideal vacation bag. Additional features
include two multiway bottle holders two
change pockets one secret pocket one key
holder and bottom hooks for shoes/ sleeping
bag (www.bombaytrooper.
com). The writer of this
issue’s Letter of the Month
wins this Trooper Bag.
To write in to the
magazine email
us at lpmagazine
@wwm.co.in.
Mail in your reviews and feedback to
[email protected] wIth us
July 2016 21