Lonely Planet India - August 2016

A serene-looking

Buddha head

has made itself

at home amid

the roots of a fig tree

at Wat Mahathat

Ayutthaya Thailand

THE LOST CITY

You’re headed into Ayutthaya the ancient

Siamese capital a short drive from

Bangkok. You’re expecting to find a walled

enclosure filled with structures that have

withstood the ravages of war and time.

Instead as you drive in you notice

crumbling temples with modernity

sprawling around them. Step in and

you realise that Ayutthaya is not divided

into old and new towns – the modern

city is quite happy to coexist right

in the crevices of the antiquated one.

Founded by King Ramathibodi I in 1350

AD Ayutthaya soon became a prosperous

land drawing merchants from across

the world. And it remained that way

until it was invaded by a Burmese army

in 1767 which wrenched away not just

its glory but also its riches.

To get a better idea of the destruction

wracked on the city visit Wat Mahathat

(Chee Kun Rd; 8am – 5pm; ` 95). Founded in

1374 it was the kingdom’s most important

temple. Walking in you’ll notice visitors

crowding around a strange relic – the

twisted roots of an ancient fig tree cradling

a stone Buddha head. As you venture

further into the complex wondering where

the rest of the statue might have gone

you’ll meet with a sombre sight – dozens

of Buddha statues all seated peacefully

but all missing their heads which were

mercilessly hacked off by the Burmese

invaders. Still a walk around here

is a calming experience as visitors pay

attention only to the iconic Buddha head.

There isn’t much of a temple left to see

at Wat Lokkayasutharam (Khlong Thaw

Rd; 8am – 6pm; free) but the 42m-long

reclining Buddha is yet another highlight

within the Ayutthaya Historical Park

which is a pleasure to explore by bicycle

when the weather permits.

Set off on a ruin excursion by boat

to Wat Chai Wattanaram (buy tickets

at Chan Kasem National Museum Pier

at U Thong Rd; operates once daily at 4pm;

` 385/ person). En route make a quick stop

at Wat Phanan Choeng which houses

Ayutthaya’s tallest Buddha idol. Continue

1

EASY TRIPS

Historic

Break

42 July 2016