Lonely Planet India - August 2016

The day off

For sartorial inspiration Federica visits Via del

Governo Vecchio a street of vintage shops. She’s

particularly drawn to Cinzia a store that’s heard before

it’s seen. Approaching it Rome’s typical soundtrack

of rumbling Vespas and church bells is interrupted

by the synthesised sound of ’60s band Question Mark

& the Mysterians. Inside ’50s rockabilly skirts hang

next to a knitted ’60s mini-dress and a Chanel blouse

from the ’80s all carefully selected by Cinzia a former

costume designer herself. “It’s a fantasy just to see this

place” raves Federica “Their pieces would have been

special even in their own time.”

Federica’s taste for vintage extends to her favourite

bar too: Suburra a ’30s-themed joint in Monti that’s

owned by a cinema producer. Props – including

a gramophone a typewriter and a pair of moose horns

guarding the toilet mirrors – set the tone. Fringed by

glass the counter looks like a giant chandelier. Behind

it waist-coated bartenders pour amber-coloured gin

and red vermouth martinez and other classic cocktails

into etched martini glasses. Beside the carefully-

arranged pyramid of bottles is an open window

through which drinks are served straight out onto

the street-side terrace. In summer months films are

screened here al fresco. “It’s so good I’ll even come

by myself sometimes” Federica admits.

Another regular fixture of her evenings is a post-

dinner visit to Il Gelato di San Crispino an ice creamery

that specialises in natural quality ingredients

gathered from all over Italy. As a child Federica

frequented the Trevi branch but reckons the one by the

Pantheon with its Art Deco glass ceiling is the most

stylish. “You can feel it’s made by a designer” she

says. “It’s so elegant.” Most customers however seem

too focused on choosing a flavour to notice the decor.

Faces pressed up to the glass countertop they agonise

between the Piedmontese hazelnut Amalfi lemon

and Sardinian honey flavours. In Rome style

is important but food always comes first.

l 00-39-69-760-1190; Cinzia Via del Governo Vecchio 45

l 00-39-64-890-5713; http://www.suburra1930.it (in Italian); Piazza della

Suburra 13 – 15; from 6pm Mon – Fri also 12pm –3pm Sat – Sun;

cocktails from ` 560

l 00-39-69-760-1190; http://www.ilgelatodisancrispino.com; Piazza della

Maddalena; 11am – 12.30am Mon – Thur till 1.30pm Fri – Sat;

ice cream from ` 190

EASY EUROPE ROME

“ROME’S TYPICAL

SOUNDTRACK OF RUMBLING

VESPAS AND CHURCH BELLS

IS INTERRUPTED BY THE

SOUND OF 1960s ROCK”

The day job

Via del Boschetto in Rome’s fashionable Monti District is a street where

the pedestrian pace is always slower than the city average. For some it’s due

to the challenge of navigating stilettos over the cobbles but mostly people

are detained by the myriad shop windows filled with striped bowties

bold flower-print kimonos bell-jar lampshades and other alluring goods.

Halfway along Boschetto boutique Sufir is a rainbow of bright dresses

rich leather handbags and Dior-style double-sided earrings. Equally colourful

in her brogues and Fanta-orange jacket is the shop’s husky-voiced manager

Federica Monciotti. Her enjoyment is palpable as she assists customers

who are trying things on. “Bella questa!” (‘That’s beautiful!’) she exclaims

frequently making minor adjustments to help show the wearer

to their best advantage.

“People come to Monti because they’re looking for unique pieces not

mass-market items” says Federica. “Milan might be Italy’s fashion capital

but in Rome we’re confident enough to try out our own style.”

“I love selling good quality things” she says indicating the superiority

of the fabric from which all Sufir’s clothes are made with materials sourced

from Lake Como and Prado. “For me fashion isn’t just about clothes – it’s in

everything. Good design and careful attention to aesthetic details are part

of an Italian way of life.”

l Via del Boschetto 96

FEDERICA MONCIOTTI BOUTIQUE MANAGER

70 July 2016