Lonely Planet India - August 2016

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GREAT FROMIndia
GREAT FORRuin-hopping
GO NOWFor an epic monsoon escape.

TURN OVER FOR ALL YOU NEED TO GET THERE


  1. The Wat Chai Wattanaram
    makes for an impressive sight

  2. Pay your respects (and pose for the
    camera) at Wat Phanan Choeng

  3. The riverfront restaurant at
    Sala Ayutthaya offers a stunning
    view of the Wat Phutthaisawan

  4. Cool or just plain weird?
    The Wat Niwet Thammaprawat
    is a Buddhist temple designed to look
    like a church


A serene-looking Buddha head
has made itself at home amid
the roots of a fig tree at Wat Mahathat

Ayutthaya Thailand
THE LOST CITYYou’re headed into Ayutthaya the ancient
Siamese capital a short drive from Bangkok. You’re expecting to find a walled
enclosure filled with structures that have withstood the ravages of war and time.
Instead as you drive in you notice crumbling temples with modernity
sprawling around them. Step in and you realise that Ayutthaya is not divided
into old and new towns – the modern city is quite happy to coexist right
in the crevices of the antiquated one.Founded by King Ramathibodi I in 1350
AD Ayutthaya soon became a prosperous land drawing merchants from across
the world. And it remained that way

until it was invaded by a Burmese army in 1767 which wrenched away not just
its glory but also its riches.To get a better idea of the destruction
wracked on the city visit (Chee Kun Rd; 8am – 5pm; Wat Mahathat` 95). Founded in
1374 it was the kingdom’s most important temple. Walking in you’ll notice visitors
crowding around a strange relic – the twisted roots of an ancient fig tree cradling
a stone Buddha head. As you venture further into the complex wondering where
the rest of the statue might have gone you’ll meet with a sombre sight – dozens
of Buddha statues all seated peacefully but all missing their heads which were
mercilessly hacked off by the Burmese

invaders. Still a walk around here is a calming experience as visitors pay
attention only to the iconic Buddha head.There isn’t much of a temple left to see
at Rd; 8am – 6pm; free)Wat Lokkayasutharam but the 42m-long (Khlong Thaw
reclining Buddha is yet another highlight within the Ayutthaya Historical Park
which is a pleasure to explore by bicycle when the weather permits.
to Set off on a ruin excursion by boat Wat Chai Wattanaram (buy tickets^

at Chan Kasem National Museum Pier at U Thong Rd; operates once daily at 4pm; (^)
at 385/ person)Wat Phanan Choeng. En route make a quick stop which houses Ayutthaya’s tallest Buddha idol. Continue Ayutthaya-style temple which surprisingly wasn’t destroyed in the 18th-century siege It survived because the Burmese used (8am – 6pm; 40).
it as a base from which to attack the nearby Royal Palace. Today the towering
structure continues to stand strong as if expressing its worth.
as it once was but it still calls out The city may no longer be as illustrious
to people from far and wide. Pervading its ruins are memories dreams and stories (^)
of a fallen realm stories that want to be told. Soak it all in.
photographswords shraddha uchil hashim badani^
the boat ride glimpsing ruins silhouetted in the evening light rows of stilt houses
and villagers out fishing. Your final destination is the Wat Chai Wattanaram
with its 35m-tall central structure 5pm; 95). Built in the Khmer style (8am – by King Prasat Thong in 1630 this temple’s architecture is vaguely reminiscent of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat. hopping and head to Take a break from all the temple-Roti Street to be treated to an interesting Thai dessert – roti sai mai – which is a reflection (^) of Ayutthaya’s very old Muslim community and as much a part of its history as its monuments U Thong Rd; from (near Ayutthaya Hospital 70). You’ll find men (^)
at work stretching and pulling at a pliable glob of melted palm sugar until it
resembles strands of hair. This resultant candy floss is rolled up inside savoury
crêpeWhen you’ve had your fill move -like rotis.
on to Wat Na Phra Men a rare early
4
1 2
3
1
EASY TRIPS
Historic Break
036-037-ET_Ayutthaya Thailand-STAN_R1.indd 33-34 15/07/16 12:20 pm
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BUDAPEST HUNGARY
A fairytale
on the Danube
PELLING SIKKIM
A com-pelling
view
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    To YOU
    Shruti Raiturcarrecommends the dinner cruise from Goa
    in Budapest
    of Hungary has two sides: Buda and Pest What worked: The capital^
    stretching along the banks of the Danube River and linked by the Chain Bridge. The best way
    to enjoy Budapest is by the nighttime river cruise which is an amazing experience. You can see
    shimmering heritage buildings by the riverside – it’s like being in a fairytale. You can experience
    the legends of Budapest come alive on this panoramic boat ride. See the Royal Palace
    the Parliament the bridges and other splendid sights bathed in light. We took the three-hour
    Dinner Cruise with Operetta and Folklore Show (one-and-a-half-hour cruise available too) which
    showcased lovely gypsy music and traditionally-dressed Hungarian folk dancers. This was followed
    by a four-course dinner with complimentary Champagne. We enjoyed the sights from
    the viewing deck with a glass of bubbly in hand.
    What didn’tvegetarian dinner options they’re very limited.: Though the cruise provides
    MAKE IT HAPPEN00-36-20-568-1251; http://www.silver-line-hu
    [email protected]; 1052 Budapest Jane Haining Rakpart Dock 11; boarding time:
    7.30pm and 9.20pm; 3950/ person Mumbai-based recommends a trip to Pelling Rajesh Nanda to get a window-side view of the third-highest mountain (^) in the world! What worked:town about a five-hour drive from Gangtok. Pelling is a small sleepy (^) Not so much a town as a small stretch of road dotted with houses and hotels on both (^) sides Pelling’s claim to fame is the amazing views of Mt Kanchendzonga the third-highest peak in the world. Pick any hotel or B&B and you will wake up to views of the mountain right outside your window making you wish you could jump out and walk to the top. Pelling is also home to the Kanchendzonga Falls and the Rabdentse Ruins – both must-visit places. Lastly the people in Pelling are warm welcoming and fun. We ended up spending a night dancing with the hotel staff all drunk celebrating the receptionist’s birthday. What didn’t:sleepy little town which pretty much shuts Pelling is a sparsely-populated down by 8pm. The roads get dark and deserted very early. Do plan your day accordingly. MAKE IT HAPPENThe best time to visit Pelling is between April and June. If you’re looking for a budget stay Summit Newa Regency & Spa is a good pick for its strategic location and the warm friendly staff (00-91-8388877888; [http://www.summithotels.in/](http://www.summithotels.in/) summit-newa-regency-hotel-pelling [email protected]; from 5000 with breakfast).
    SHARE WITH US
    007-Share with us-san_R1.indd 33 15/07/16 12:04 pm
    Mail in your reviews and feedback to [email protected] wIth us

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