Lonely Planet India - August 2016

Gruyère cheese has been around since 1115 AD and unsurprisingly you’re going to want

more of it than just the taster squares that are part of your tour ticket. The Gruyères Market

on the premises is where you buy your stash.

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A Maison du Gruyère is visited ideally first thing in the morning so that you have some

time to explore before you hit your next cheese-related activity. The compact medieval

town of Gruyères seat of the Counts of Gruyère from the 12th century onwards is great

to wander through. The crane (“grue”) that gives the town its name is everywhere in decor

and on the hanging signs of the many quaint restaurants cafés and quirky boutiques that dot

the pretty town. Stop a moment to look at Le Calvaire dating back to the 16th century once

a guards hall then a saunerie (salt store) and fire station and now a gallery in which local

craftsmen display their art. Then walk on – this is a traffic-free town – to the magnificent Château

de Gruyères set majestically overlooking the town. Over the centuries the fortress has been

transformed into a stately residence – Gruyères was fortunate to have never been attacked

and the only depredation the castle keepers faced was penury – and walking through the many

rooms throws up interesting discoveries (see box: Wander through the Château de Gruyères).

Walk back into town. If you’re a fan of the Alien movies the HR Giger Museum housed

incongruously in the medieval Château St Germain cocoons an impressive – and bizarre –

collection of Giger’s paintings sculptures furniture and film designs dating back to the 1960s

that overflows onto the street and across into the Aliens-themed bar opposite. Prepare to be

slightly stunned and do hurry past if you have children with you.

Now comes the part you’ve been waiting for: fondue moitié-moitié at Restaurant le Chalet

de Gruyères. Made by melting together two cheeses – Gruyère and Vacherin Fribourgeois –

over low heat this fondue is ideal for sharing. Happy-making rules apply: because cheese

needs a little help going down you must drink only hot tea or more fun wine with your

fondue never water; a man who loses his bread to the cheese pot while dipping must buy

the whole table a round of drinks a lady may just offer a round of kisses. Either way

dunking and diving in cheese is a pleasurable effort best rewarded with a delectable dessert

of meringues with double Gruyère cream and we guarantee you’ll only just about be able

to stagger to a well-earned siesta before we reveal the evening’s food surprise.

1 & 3. Each year Château de Gruyères hosts a workshop to restore one ancient musical instrument

2. The gorgeous meringues served with double Gruyère cream at Restaurant le Chalet de Gruyères
   Facing page: One of HR Giger’s striking creations – set outside the museum

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EASY EUROPE GRUYÈRES

92 July 2016