MARCH 2016 http://www.yachtingmonthly.com 29A QUESTION OF
SEAMANSHIPBill’s answer from p26
It would have been easier to leave in the
dark, with no wind to complicate the
manoeuvre. But that would have meant a
tedious passage under engine instead of a
sparkling sail so we didn’t really consider it.
We did think about taking a sternline
to the boat on the pontoon astern to haul
ourselves clear of the berth, allow the
wind to swing her, then motor out. But it
seemed over-complicated and would have
blocked the channel for 10 minutes or so.
What we did was rig a sternline as a slip
rope, to the port quarter of the boat on
our starboard side. The plan was to motor
astern, paying out slack on that stern line
until our bows were in clear water. Then use
the sternline as a spring, to pivot us to port
until we were pointing towards the seaward
end of the channel, then go fi rmly ahead
with the rudder hard to port and slip the
sternline. It sounds simple but there were
snags. There was only just enough width in
the channel. As we started to reverse out of
the berth the stern, predictably, swung to
port and we had to hold onto our sternline
briefl y to straighten her up. This swung the
bow to port, almost hitting our neighbouron our port side. Luckily their crew was
able to fend off. Once clear of the berth
we did just have room to swing the bows
to port by motoring against the sternline
but there was an anxious moment as we
put the engine ahead with the helm hard
to port and slipped the sternline. We were
now turning the boat against the way she
naturally wanted to go, forcing the bows to
windward. If we used too little power, we’d
drift onto the boats on our starboard side.
But the more power we used, the greater
the risk of a really damaging collision with
the boats to starboard if she didn’t turn
quickly enough to port. And if we were
slow recovering the sternline as we slipped
it, the prop could have caught the rope. It
all went to plan but if it hadn’t there was no
plan B and no obvious overshoot available.
A safer option would have been to ask
the marina workboat, a dory with a well-
fendered bow, to stand by as a tug to push
our bows round to port. But she was at the
seaward end of the channel, well beyond
hailing range, directing arriving visitors
to their berths and my French is not good
enough to make radio communication easy!
We got away with it, but it all felt wrong,
forcing the boat to turn against the way she
would naturally go. If a gust had arrived
at the wrong time it would probably have
ended in tears. If I have to do it again, I
hope I will have the patience to wait for the
marina workboat and the good sense not
to be too proud to use him as a tug.‘How would you escape from
this ‘lobster pot berth’?’
Are AGM batteries
worth it?
Q
I bought a yacht three
years ago. The domestic
batteries were on their last
legs so I replaced them like-for-like
with two 120Ah gel batteries for
nearly £600. I have just discovered
that one or both of them has lost
several of its cells and the two-year
warranty has run out. The suppliers
told me this can just happen.
I am loath to spend another £600
on more gel batteries. Can I use
sealed calcium batteries, which are
nearly identical but cost £105 each?
If I can, why do we bother with gel at
nearly three times the price?
David McCormickA
Nigel Calder replies: A good-quality
battery should not fail in two years.
Something is not right and needs to
be sorted out. It is probably not the batteries
that are at fault, but the manner in which they
are being used.
If the boat is on a swinging mooring and the
batteries rarely get fully charged, they may
sulphate internally and die from a gradual loss
of capacity. If the boat is kept in a marina with
a shore power, an improperly regulated batterycharger may cause persistent overcharging.
The most cost-effective replacements
depend on use and charging, as well as the
alternator and charger fi tted. If you can
regularly recharge the batteries from shore
power, a high-quality fl ooded battery will
be the best investment. Alternatively, if you
run the engine on your mooring to charge
the batteries and have a relatively powerful
alternator fi tted, AGM batteries will be better
as they have a higher charge acceptance rate.
These may cost twice as much and have a
lower nominal cycle life, but take into account
the cost of running the engine and they may
turn out to be a better investment.An AGM battery may be better away from shore powerHow to prepare
a yacht for sale
+44 (0)1590 673312
And for your next yacht, see:
Berthon.co.uk/winter-collection
To buy or sell, contact Berthon’s
expert yacht brokerage team on:Useful tips for a quicker sale at the right
price, from the UK’s leading experts1
Get the paperwork right. You need
originals showing a 5-year title chain,
including: VAT receipt or other VAT
paperwork, RCD documentation, all
service and maintenance records and all
the major invoices for the yacht during
your ownership. Carefully presented
records speak volumes about how a
yacht has been looked after.2
If it’s broken, fi x it. It is a surveyor’s
job to pick up on faults. If you don’t,
it will take longer to sell and you’ll get a
worse price – the purchaser’s discount
will be much more than the cost of
mending the breakage. Repair or replace
areas showing wear and tear.3
The yacht should be thoroughly
cleaned. Have the topsides and
superstructure polished, stainless
gleaming, and a fresh coat of antifoul if
she’s ashore, to set the right tone. The
interior should be cleaned by professional
valets and de-cluttered. It’s worth making
up the owner’s berth so that the yacht
looks welcoming.4
Get some good photos of the yacht.
Your broker will need to take
good pictures of the yacht inside and
out, so she needs to be ready to be
photographed. Ask the broker’s advice
and if she’s afl oat, go out and get good
shots of her under sail.5
Ask your broker what the
marketing plan is for your yacht.
They should be focused on her unique
selling points. Do take their advice on
pricing and on doing any jobs that they
feel are important to present her in the
best possible light.