MARCH 2016 http://www.yachtingmonthly.com 47
CRUISING
problems. Once through the entrance,
follow the coast on the SE side where
the current is weaker. There may
occasionally be a weak counter-current.
The edge of the main current is readily
identifi ed by eddies welling up where
the sea bottom shelves from the deep channel
to the 20 and 10-metre depth contours. In
practice, a yacht can keep just inside the eddy
line and encounter the full force of the current
only where the channel narrows.
Even if you have a powerful engine it is
worth following the low-power route, which
although longer is quicker overall. It also has
the benefi t of being out of the main shipping
channel for the most part. On the return
journey a yacht can follow the European coast
to take full advantage of the current.
The approach from the Aegean is always
windy in summer and often in spring and
autumn, too. The prevailing NE winds fan
out over the Aegean from the entrance
to the Dardanelles. The Meltemi often
blows at Force 5-7, making it a diffi cult
trip. It is worth building in a time
allowance here so you can wait for the
NE winds to relent a bit. In spring and
autumn you do get southerlies and calms,
although you still have an appreciable
current fl owing out of the Dardanelles to
slow your progress.
Low-powered yachts need to plan
carefully for a passage up the Dardanelles.
The prevailing wind blows straight down
the channel and combined with the
strong current can cause considerable
Getting
through the
Dardanelles
The history of Byzantium
A city called
Byzantium
existed on
the site and
in 330AD it
was renamed
Constantinople,
capital of the
Eastern Roman
Empire. With
the fall of
Rome in 476,
Constantinople
became the
centre of the
Byzantine Empire. By the 6th Century
AD it extended from Spain to Greece,
plus much of Asia Minor and north
Africa. Gradually the empire contracted
as Muslim armies advanced. In 1204,
the Fourth Crusade from Europe
sacked Constantinople and it never
recovered. In 1453, Mehmed II took the
city and empire under Ottoman rule.
the city as proximity. Other marinas are
closer in distance to Sultanahmet, the old
quarter of Istanbul, but most have poor
transport links. Yalova has a ferry port
right next door and it’s an hour on the
ferry to Yeni Kapi, within walking distance
of Sultanahmet. The old days when you
could anchor off in Bebek or Haydarpasa
are long gone and as yet no marinas have
been built in these areas, although there
are plans to do so.
Byzantine ghosts are everywhere.
Haghia Sophia was the largest church ever
until St Peter’s was built a thousand years
later in Rome. The engineering that went
into constructing the vast central dome is
still impressive to this day. You usually get
to Haghia Sofi a, and the Blue Mosque for
that matter, by wandering along the
Hippodrome, which was the centre of
Busy shipping in the
Dardanelles means
yachts must motor
A memorial in the Dardanelles to the Turkish
soldiers killed fi ghting the British in 1915
Mehmed II, who
placed Istanbul and
the Byzantine empire
under Ottoman rule
PHOTO: ALAMY
Yalova Marina near Istanbul made a good base