Yachting Monthly - November 2015

EXPERT ON BOARD

16 http://www.yachtingmonthly.com NOVEMBER 2015

Get the

right sails

A effective furling mainsail needs a number of key
features. The major difference from a slab-reefed
mainsail is on the trailing edge – the leech. Roach
(a convex curve on the leech) needs battens and a
leech line to control it. A furling sail has an inverse
roach – a concave curve – so it stays under tension.
Furling sails also have to be cut fl at, with no belly, to
avoid creases. Shape the sail with outhaul tension
instead, as with the genoa sheet and car settings.
The clew needs to be cut higher to allow for
the outhaul track and blocks above the boom. If
the sail is cut with a horizontal foot, the boom will
hang below horizontal and the seams on the foot
will furl on top of each other, possibly jamming
inside the mast section. A higher clew means the
foot will slowly spiral upwards as it furls.
The sail has to roll as fl at as possible, so there
are no cringles or headboard. Even reinforcement
layers can be too solid. All the head needs is a
webbing eye, set slightly back from the luff so the
fi rst roll is tight enough. For the same reason, the
stitching for the boltrope is more spread out.
‘In our experience, even vertical battens can
cause problems,’ says Barrie.
With the genoa, people are used to a fl atter
cut, but a good furling genoa still needs some
adjustments. A high foot will fi t over the furling
gear and increases visibility forwards, and the loss
of sail area balances out the smaller mainsail.

Hauling heavy or stiff lines, the

enjoyment of sailing quickly

disappears. Here are a few tips

to keep friction out of your

furling system:

■ Bigger blocks mean less

friction, whether it’s the

turning blocks, the outhaul

block, or the boom sheaves.

Check and service them to

keep them working properly.

■ All lines should avoid

touching anything between

blocks. Poorly led ropes will

rub on obstructions.

Reduce friction

■ Avoid tight angles whenever

possible. Deck organisers are a

key culprit – move them aft for a

less acute change of direction.

■ Use correctly sized rope. A line

that is too fat will drag on block

cheeks and fairleads.

■ Furling lines wear over time,

suffer from UV degredation and

become ingrained with salt,

making them fat and infl exible.

This is particularly bad news

around the mainsail furling spiral.

■ The genoa furling line lead

should be perpendicular to the

middle of the drum. A poor lead

will cause turns to pile up and

jam against the drum casing.

This lead for this furling line

drum is too high, making the line

pile up at the top

This outhaul is chafi ng. Move it

to another boom-end sheave

or shorten the outhaul track

TOP: A deck organiser this far forward gives lines a sharp turn

BOTTOM: Move it back and you get a wider angle and an easier run

Further aft,

wider angle

Further forward,

more acute angle

There are no cringles,

headboard or other

bulky hardware

A furling sail has

an inverse, concave

roach so the leech

stays under tension

The clew is

cut higher to

accommodate the

outhaul blocks

The stitching on

the boltrope is

spaced out away

from the mast

The sails are both

slightly smaller but

remain balanced

Sail shape comes from outhaul

tension, just like the genoa

A high genoa foot aids furling

and increases forward visbility