14
I
t was only once my boy-
friend, Matt, and I were
underway from Santa
Catalina, Panama, to Coiba
National Park, a protected
island group 30 miles to the
west, that I began reviewing
my dusty notes on the place.
Months back, I’d highlighted
“tiger sharks,” “saltwater croc-
odiles,” “former penal colony.”
All good reasons, typically, for
a swift change of course. But
I’d also dog-eared full-page
photo spreads of empty white
sand beaches and people sus-
pended underwater next to12-meter whale sharks. The
possibility of swimming with
one of those gargantuan spot-
ted fi sh was enough for me to
accept Coiba’s less desirable
features with the mantra “Out
of sight, out of mind.”
Something about Coiba’s
dark history, desolate beau-
ty and lack of people makes
it feel like one of the most
remote places I’ve visited.
The things that once made
the park’s 38 islands the ideal
location for a Panamanian
work prison until 1995, includ-
ing its distance from the main-land and lack of infrastructure,
contribute today to its desig-
nation as a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. With limited
human infl uence for all those
years, Coiba’s various habitats
have fl ourished. Pristine wa-
ters showcase species endemic
to the Eastern Pacifi c and
pelagic and migratory species.
On land, stretches of sandy
beach are home to clusters ofdroopy, coconut-heavy palms
and freshwater springs. Just
under the surface of Coiba’s
brilliantly clear water lies a
reef full of vibrant coral and
tame marine life. Just above is
a noticeable lack of boats.
Which is ironic, because the
best way to experience Coiba
is by boat. Vacant, scenic an-
chorages abound, and the dis-
tance between any two is nev-
er more than a day’s sail, often
only several hours. For manyCOIBA NATIONAL
PARK
Pay to Play
Cruisers are known for being, let’s say, frugal. Over and over again,
when we told other sailors we would be visiting Coiba, we heard: “Oh,
we really want to go there. But the park fees are so steep!” At about
$100 a day, entrance to the park is not cheap. But when you consider
that what you’re paying for is essentially time travel, it doesn’t feel
outrageous. If you want to experience Central America’s Pacifi c coast
as it was before overfishing, pollution and development affected it,Coiba is the place. And since so few cruisers visit, they’re left with
an abundance of anchorages to choose from. We spent four nights at
Coiba and never saw another boat. We even heard about cruisers who,
having never encountered the park oi cials, were indirectly granted
free entrance. But considering that the money goes to the further
preservation of this natural gem, the very type of untouched paradise
most seek out, cruisers shouldn’t have any gripes about contributing.Among the delights of Pan-
ama’s Coiba National Park
are empty anchorages with
vibrants reefs to explore,
such as of Isla Jicarita
(above), and plenty of wide,
white sand beaches (left).(continued on page 16)KATE MACBAINmay 2016cruisingworld.com