Cruising World - February 2016

38

WAYPOINTS

FEBRUARY

2016

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the port of departure and intended des-

tination. It makes clearing into Mexico

much easier, and American offi cials will

provide one even though they don’t see

the point.

Cruisers in the know had told us that

checking in at Isla Mujeres could take

anywhere from three hours to a week,

depending on which day we arrived and

the mood of the offi cials. On weekends

and holidays, the fees go up. If an immi-

gration or customs offi cial is absent, the

whole process can get stalled.

It typically goes something like this:

Upon arrival, check in with the port cap-

tain, who will send you to the hospital

to see a sanitation offi cial. This offi cial

will ask questions about your health

and immunizations, and then either

stamp your papers or put you in quaran-

tine. The next stops are immigration for

more stamps, and then over to the bank

to pay a fee and get a receipt. Then it’s

on to the department of agriculture to

see an offi cial who might come to your

boat to investigate what’s in the galley —

and possibly confi scate all non-Mexican

food. A trip to customs is also required.

After acquiring all the stamps and bank

receipt, you then return to the port cap-

tain for his stamp.

If staying more than 10 days, you also

need to go to Cancún and purchase a “tem-

porary importation paper” for your vessel,

which is good for 10 years. Failure to pro-

cure this piece of paper could result in the

impounding of your vessel.

It all sounded fairly daunting, so we de-

cided to employ a local agent to facilitate

the process. In Isla Mujeres, Chepo at Ma-

rina Paraiso came highly recommended.

In rapid-fi re English peppered with Span-

ish, he told us exactly what to do. He said

the immigration offi ce charges $110, and

he suggested tips of $10 for each of the

four offi cials. We could pay Chepo the

amount we thought he merited, so we gave

him $40 and he seemed

pleased. It was defi nitely

worth the ease and peace

of mind. All we had to

do was give Chepo our

money, passports, pa-

perwork and multiple

copies of everything.

Then we plopped down

at the marina’s beach bar

for a beer and lunch.

We had mixed feelings

about paying “tips” to

government offi cials, but

after all, they were com-

ing to us rather than vice

versa, so we rationalized

it as their transportation costs. The tips

were optional, not required.

Chepo embodied the word “expedite.”

Not only did he talk fast, but he moved

fast. He brought all the offi cials to us, and

we only needed to step away from the

beach bar occasionally to answer a few

questions and sign some forms. It went so

quickly that half the time we had no idea

which offi cial was from which department.

Only the offi cial from the department of

agriculture asked to come aboard Mary T.

I pulled a few items out of the fridge and

practiced my Spanish vocabulary. She said

there was no problem as long as we con-

sumed everything on the boat. Phew!

All that remained was to take the ferry

to Cancún to get our temporary impor-

tation certifi cate. Chepo gave us explicit

instructions on how to fi nd the offi ce and

which stamped papers to present. The fee

for that was $60.

After a couple of luxurious days at Ma-

SAILING TO THE SUN

Participating in one of two Gulf Coast

regattas is a popular way to sail to Isla

Mujeres.

• The annual Regata del Sol al Sol
  starts in St. Petersburg, Florida, on
  April 22, 2016, and is open to boats
  30 feet and larger. Find more
  information at the event’s website
  (regatadelsolalsol.org).


• Regata al Sol is a biennial event
  from Pensacola, Florida, that is also
  open to boats 30 feet and larger. The
  cruising division leaves on May 11,
  2016, and the racing division heads
  out on May 12. For more information,
  visit the regatta’s website
  (regataalsol.org). —Jen Brett

Ideal conditions provided for a lovely

reach (and a great sunset) the fi rst

night of the 390-mile passage from

Key West to Isla Mujeres (above). The

author’s husband, Ken Kurlychek

(right), strolls along Playa Norte, one

of the island’s most popular beaches.

Nautical Miles

0 60 120

Florida

CUBA

MEXICO

TropicofCance

r

Key West

Cozumel

Yu c a t a n

Channel

Cancún Isla Mujeres

Ro

ute

ofM

ary

T

GU

LF

OF

ME

XIC

O

CA

RI

BB

EA

N S

EA

25º N

20º N

90º W 80º W

Isla

Mujeres

Cancún

AMY FLANNERY; MAP BY SHANNON CAIN TUMINO