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6 TRAVEL+LEISURE | OCTOBER 2019
Ira, the resident cellar dog, at Shelter Winery in Kenzingen, Germany.
CONTENTS
10 Letter from the Editor
Discoveries
17 Explore the renovated
Hôtel de Paris–Monte Carlo,
embark on a Québécois
adventure, and meet the
chefs transforming safari-
lodge menus.
The Romance of Travel
33 FULL HEARTS, OPEN ROAD^
Niagara Falls might not be
the top choice for today’s
lovebirds, but their goal
should still be to get joyfully
lost in the world together.
38 A SECOND DATE IN PARADISE^
A pair of travelers test
the waters of a budding
relationship on an island in
the South Pacific.
44 LOVE AT ANY STAGE^
In Sicily, two empty nesters
revive their old travel
rhythms—and rekindle their
spirit of adventure.
50 TRAVELS WITH TOBY^
How does a bookish gay
couple discover their inner
jocks in Midcoast Maine?
Through the addition of an
energetic bro dog.
52 WHEN MARRIAGE IS A TREK^
On a three-day hike through
California’s Marin County
for their 10th anniversary,
one couple is reminded to
take things step by step.
57 The Intelligent
Traveler:
Cruise Edition
How to plan your next
voyage, what to do once
you’re on board, and how to
book the best excursions.
Departments
Features a female-led falconry
program is pushing the
sport’s boundaries.
90 VANCOUVER’S TRUE NATURE
The fast-growing Canadian
city’s modern identity can
be found in its excellent
homegrown art scene and
abundant green spaces.
Your Best Shot
104 Reader Audrey Lang
captures a joyful
group of schoolgirls
in Côte d’Ivoire.
70 THE TOTALLY WONDERFUL,
RAVISHINGLY LOVELY,
UTTERLY UNEXPECTED PLACE
FOR PINOT
Hikes for wild herbs,
Michelin-starred meals,
extraordinary foliage,
and surprising wines
are the highlights of an
autumn visit to Germany’s
Baden region.
78 SPELLBOUND^
The tiny West African
nation of São Tomé and
Príncipe is emerging as
an eco-tourism mecca.
86 COME FLY WITH ME^
At a century-old resort
in Colorado Springs,
ON THE COVER
Subscriber: Winery Wasenhaus,
in Germany (page 70).
Newsstand: A viewing platform
over the North Black Forest
(page 70). Photographs by
Christian Kerber.
c ober
