Venison Currywurst, sweet-
potato fries, and roasted local
vegetables at Gasthaus Adler.
A cobblestoned alley between the
19th-century houses near Lahr.
The easiest way to get to the
Baden wine region and the Black
Forest is to fly to Frankfurt
and pick up a rental car. It’s
about a two-hour drive to the
town of Baden-Baden, where
you can begin the trip.
Where to Stay
The ultra-luxurious Hotel Traube
Tonbach (traube-tonbach.de; dou-
bles from $275), in the Black
Forest town of Baiersbronn,
is home to the Michelin three-
starred Schwarzwaldstube restau-
rant. For winery touring, the Hotel
Restaurant Adler (adler-lahr.de;
doubles from $166), in Lahr, occu-
pies a midpoint between Baden-
Baden and Freiburg im Breisgau.
Rooms are cozy and charming.
Where to Eat and Drink
In Lahr, Weingut Wöhrle
(woehrle- wein.de) is an ideal spot
for sampling some of Germany’s
best Pinot Noir before dinner at
nearby Gasthaus Adler (adler-lahr.
de; entrées $15–$39), which serves
traditional dishes like Hirschgulasch
(venison stew). About a half-hour
drive south, stop by modern
wineries Shelter (shelterwinery.de)
in Kenzingen, Franz Keller
(franz-keller.de) in Vogtsburg, and
Weingut Hub er (weingut-huber.
com) in Malterdingen, as well as
Vogtsburg’s Winzerhaus Rebstock
(franz-keller.de; entrées $49–$51) for
braised roast beef and house-made
noodles. Explore the natural wines
at Wasenhaus (wasenhaus.de) in
Staufen, then sit outside eating
regional cheeses at Restaurant
Käsestube (restaurant- kaesestube.
de; entrées $7–$13).
Gwen Kozlowski (gwen@exeter
from $1,000 per person for a
three-day trip), a member
of the T+L A-List, can arrange
private itineraries in the
Baden region and throughout
southwestern Germany. — R.I.