Classic_Boat_2016-10

92 CLASSIC BOAT OCTOBER 2016

Boatbuilder’s Notes

CRAFTSMANSHIP

The screw and scrap

wood beading tool

TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPH RYAN KEARLEY

Here’s another illustration of the thrifty resourcefulness of

the humble boatbuilder, and although cruder than expensive

shop-built alternatives, it has proved itself to be more versatile.

Fine wooden boats are full of delicate little mouldings,

from ogees to the humble bead. They can be seen in fine

Thames craft and work boats alike. Their origins can be

traced back through the mists of time in Norse tradition,

and are evident on Viking finds such as the Gokstad faering.

It is not always certain whether they are simply decorative.

On Shetland craft and historic Viking craft, beads scratched

onto the inside top edge of each plank may have provided

a reference for positioning nails through the lands. Whether

this detailing serves a purpose or not, it has been said that

it’s impossible to put too much quality into a pleasure craft,

or indeed into any craft that floats. I would go along with

that, but it needn’t break the bank.

A slotted screw wound into the side of a piece of scrap

wood that fits neatly in the hand serves as a great tool for

scratching a bead along stringers, thwart edges, gunwales

or anything that takes your fancy. The screw can be wound

in or out to alter the size of the bead, and the corner of the

slot can be positioned to aid the cutting of the bead.

From personal experience I have found the screw

fastened into the rounded end of a length of ¾ by ¾in

section wood, used with care, can be immensely versatile.

It is invaluable for putting a bead on the top edge of

breasthooks and knees, because the edges are not always

angled at 90^0 and are made up of sinuous curves. In fact, I

find that my little scratch stock is the only tool that will

reach the parts that other very expensive shop built tools

just cannot reach.

Sharp measure

The known widths of chisel edges can be used to measure and mark

out timber. For example, a common four-piece chisel set includes

6mm, 12mm, 18mm and 25mm wide blades which used singly or in

combination provide numerous possibilities for accurate linear

measurement, writes Robin Gates.

Stepping out the length of a plank inch-by-inch by chisel could

prove tedious, but for small joinery or where working space is tight

the deft prod of a chisel provides a more accurate line than that

pencilled with the aid of an unwieldy folding rule.

Here, for example, with three jabs of two chisels the measuring

and marking were done in one before chopping out a socket which

is 18mm (¾in) long and 12mm (½in) wide – taking perhaps two

minutes from start to finish. It’s a technique that could get you out

of a hole, or indeed make one to required dimensions.

A socket 18mm (¾in)

long and 12mm (½in)

wide measured,

marked and cut using

chisels alone

It is invaluable for

putting a bead on

the top edge of

breasthooks

and knees

Scratching a bead

along stringers

BOATBUILDER’S SECRET