Boat International – June 2017

http://www.boatinternational.com | June 2017

PHOTOGRAPHS: ROGER LEAN VERCOE; GETTY IMAGES

“

H

ow inappropriate to call this

planet ‘Earth’, when it is clearly

‘Ocean’,” undersea explorer

and author Arthur C Clarke

once said. There are few destinations in the

world that resemble this sentiment more

clearly than the 10 volcanic islands of the

Cape Verde (or, more correctly, Cabo Verde)

archipelago. Their position, secluded 350

miles off the African coast within the winter

trade winds, sees windsurfers and kitesurfers

flock to the nation’s azure waters. It is also

the ocean, or more correctly the plight of the

world’s oceans, that has brought me to the

rocky island of São Vicente. Its harbour is to

be the starting point for an Atlantic crossing

on a chartered Volvo 70 for the Mirpuri

Foundation. The voyage of the Foundation’s

prospective entry in the 2020 Volvo Ocean

Race is aimed at publicising the poor state

of our oceans. “To be on board a racing yacht

• small and fragile when compared to the
  vastness of the ocean – helps us to become
  aware that it is truly possible to fulfil our
  dream of making this world better for future
  generations,” says skipper Paulo Mirpuri.
  Like the Mirpuri Foundation’s crossing,
  Cabo Verde is also a destination of
  extraordinary contradictions. Lying some
  1,000 miles north of the equator, its islands
  offer a stunning range of scenery from barren
  moonscapes to lush, fertile mountains. The
  heart of boating activities on the islands
  is Porto Grande Bay. Overlooked by bare
  rugged mountains, its turquoise waters are
  dotted with ships and yachts of all sizes. Back
  in the 15th century, this haven was a magnet
  for the Portuguese who, in 1460, used this
  then-uninhabited archipelago
  for their ongoing voyages of
  discovery. Almost three centuries
  later, in the era of steamships, this
  safe harbour served as a coaling
  station and eventually became
  the settlement of Mindelo, which
  has since grown into an attractive
  town with some fine colonial
  buildings. As steam was replaced
  by diesel the port fell into severe
  decline but its later reincarnation
  as a terminal for submarine
  cables, and more latterly as a
  tourist destination, has returned
  it to limited wealth.

Yachting interest is focused in the smart

new 150 berth marina, whose floating jetties

reach out into the harbour from a beautifully

restored pier. Just 10 years ago this had been

a disused coaling facility. High season is

November and December, when the annual

migration to the Caribbean is in full swing.

But in January, when I visit, only 50 or so

berths are filled by latecomers and those who

have chosen to winter here. I soon discover

the latter option is not a bad choice in view

of the blissful winter climate and untapped

cruising potential of these scenic islands.

During my initial wander through the

streets of this recently created yachting hub,

I am struck by the cleanliness of the town.

House-proud locals keep the colourful streets

tidy and attractively decorated, and I am

always greeted with a friendly smile. I stroll

past a proliferation of cafés, clubs, restaurants

and bars, many advertising live music, while

vegetable, meat and souvenir markets are

bustling with shoppers. The waterfront,

littered with colourful wooden fishing boats,

Overlooked by bare,

rugged mountains, its

turquoise waters are

dotted with ships and

yachts of all sizes

Craggy stretches

of coast can make

harbours difficult

to enter but all the

main islands have

tenable anchorages

Voyage

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Voyage Cape Verde, 2