June 2017 | http://www.boatinternational.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY; REX; 4CORNERS
across the water to the south
east. The smallest of the
islands in the archipelago,
it has a barren and rugged
coast to the north while the
south has rippling dunes and
pale yellow sandy beaches.
There was previously a small
community that raised
livestock on the island but
since the 1990s only a handful
of adventurous tourists visit
its otherworldly landscapes.
Just a further 15 nautical
miles on, the pretty island of
São Nicolau has an entirely
different feel with fertile
mountains, colonial style
painted houses and black sand
beaches. Follow the lead of the
locals and bury yourself under
the dark grains that contain titanium and
iodine, which supposedly bring relief to joint
diseases and rheumatism. Alternatively, the
landscapes are ideal to explore by horseback
- look out for the indigenous blue-green flat-
topped dragon tree Dracaena draco.
The delights of this enchanting
archipelago reach further than the islands
closest to Mindelo. Just over 120 nautical
miles to the south of Mindelo lie the
Sotavento Islands, also known as the
Leeward Islands, which are equally diverse.
Visit the Island of Flowers, officially
known as Brava, which just after the rainy
season is carpeted with flora including
vibrant oleander bushes, colourful hibiscus
and fuchsia bougainvillea. It is thought that
Brava was once part of the neighbouring
island of Fogo, which lies just 10 nautical
miles across a channel that is only a couple
of hundred metres deep.
The Sotavento Islands are also home
to Santiago. The largest island in the
archipelago, it is the seat of the country’s
government and offers another safe port.
Two volcanic mountain ranges dominate the
island, which is now home to more than half
of Cape Verdeans. As well as its mountainous
landscape it has fine sandy beaches and a
kapok tree that is thought to be more than
500 years old. Directly to Santiago’s east lies
Maio. Low and dry it is a haven for birds and
turtles, and also provides some of the best
diving in Cabo Verde.
While I don’t have time to visit all that
this diverse archipelago has to offer, Meyer-
Scheel is adamant that I should make the
crossing to Santo Antão, which lies directly
As well as its mountainous
landscape it has fine sandy
beaches and a kapok tree
more than 500 years old
Cape Verde has
fertile mountains
that sustain garden
crops for domestic
consumption
north of Mindelo. Landing at Porto Novo,
the countryside seems to replicate São
Vicente’s scrubland but as we climb the
scenic Rua de Corda into the mountains it
becomes steadily greener – occasional trees
became whole groves of acacia, eucalyptus,
fig and then pine forests. Suddenly the most
amazing panorama opens across the north
of the island with razorback ridges, steep
green valleys and volcanic cones stretching
beneath me as far as the distant sea. Onwards,
the road continues through spectacular
scenery, edging a dormant volcanic caldera to
bring me to the goat’s cheese-making centre
of Corda village. Despite having plentiful
water and thriving agriculture, this island
remains one of the poorest of the archipelago.
However, as was exemplified in a village
without electricity or household water, its
people lack neither dignity nor happiness.
Wide-eyed at the scenery, I eventually reach
the coast and divert up the lush Ribeira
Grande valley, where crops of bananas,
plantains and maize flourish.
Returning to São Vicente, I am swept up
in the departure of the Mirpuri Foundation’s
Volvo 70 as its skipper prepares the yacht for
its crossing to Barbados. Most departures
from Mindelo are quiet affairs but today’s
embodies the true spirit of Cape Verdean
carnival, enlivened by a Brazilian-style drum
band, scantily clad dancers and soulful morna
music. No wonder the crew seem reluctant
to leave – these islands of such remarkable
contrast are worthy of a much longer visit. B
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Voyage Cape Verde, 4