(^8) BLUE WATER SAILING • June / July 2017
BWS
I
’m not really sure how the U.S.
Virgin Island of St. John got its
moniker, Love City—maybe
because it’s such a popular hon-
eymoon spot. Or maybe, it’s
because once you go, you’re in
love with the place and can’t wait to
go back just to while away the hours
in one of its beautiful bays.
The United States purchased St.
John from the Danish West India and
Guinea Company in 1917 for $25 mil-
lion. It’s the smallest of the U.S. Virgins
and is perfectly positioned, four miles
from St. Thomas and four miles from
Tortola in the British Virgins. Almost
two thirds of the 20-square-mile is-
land and its bays is protected as the
Virgins Islands National Park and the
Park Service takes its management of
it seriously, as we found out.
We chartered our cat from The
Moorings in Tortola, quite possibly
the busiest but most efficient base I’ve
ever visited. Once briefed and provi-
sioned, we rushed to customs at the
other end of the harbor to check out
of the country before the office closed,not a fast process given the amount of
officialdom. Thus, we arrived late into
Maho Bay on St. John and in the fading
light, just made out a row of mooring
balls. We hooked up, made dinner and
went to bed.
The next morning we woke up in
a quiet bay fringed by a white sand
beach that extends 60 feet out into
turquoise water where it joins a reef.
It being the first week of December,
we shared this blissful bight of St.
Francis Bay with only four other boats,
all but one on moorings. Not having
yet officially checked into the U.S. via
Cruz Bay, we couldn’t go ashore, so
instead, we opted to SUP around the
anchorage, stopping to put $20 into a
box on a floating raft as payment for
our night on the mooring. Curious
turtles surfaced all around and dozens
of stingrays glided by. It was a quiet
Sunday morning in paradise as the
beachside church services hadn’t yet
gotten started.
Just as we pulled the boards back
up on deck, a Park Service vessel
with red lights flashing, roundedthe corner and went straight to the
sportfisher with a Puerto Rico hailing
port on his transom, the only boat
anchored about 70 feet off the beach.
Anchoring is not allowed in these
park waters and I heard steep fines,
upwards of $5,000, may be assessed.
As we ate our breakfast, we watched
the sportfisher undergo a detailed
“inspection” that took the better part
of two hours. When the Park Service
left, the sportfisher scooted over to an
available mooring ball. I bet that $
fee looked good by comparison.
After we checked in (a breeze
compared to the British version) we
circumnavigated the island, hiked a
few trails and visited Skinny Legs bar
by car where the requisite T-shirts
were purchased. In all, we had only
two days to spend on this lovely island
but I’m already planning a way to get
back there, especially to the pristine
Maho Bay, to swim with turtles, walk
the sugary white sand of the beach,
lay under a swaying palm tree and
oh yeah, definitely catch and pay for
a mooring.{ CRUISINGDISPATCHES }
In Love with
Love City
Maho Bay on
St. John Island
by Zuzana Prochazka