cruising
southerly wind – you’ll find a standing sea
which could be tricky, but apart from that
there are no nasties, and there’s a sector
light to guide you in.’
Out in the bay, a race is going on –
there are maybe 50 yachts of various
sizes, including the locally-built Troys.
Fowey has always been a busy port.
From pre-Roman times until the 13th
century, ships would visit to trade for the
tin that was panned throughout Cornwall.
It was also a key location for smuggling.
‘You can still see the metal stakes driven
into the cliffs, which they used escape the
revenue men,’ says Paul.
England became involved in a series of
wars from 1739 onwards, and ships would
regularly come in to ‘press’ men for the
Navy. By the 19th century, the harbour
was crowded with all sorts of ships, from
men of war and East Indiamen to privateers
and brigs supplying Nelson’s squadrons.
In World War II, the docks were rebuilt so
Fowey could serve as a base for the Air
Sea Rescue service and a departure point
for American Forces on D-Day.
We head back along the eastern side
of the harbour, passing Punches Cross,
a white wooden cross on the rocks. ‘Up
at the top you can see the ruins of a
monastery,’ says Paul. ‘There are lots of
theories about the cross, but I believe the
monks put it there to mark the harbour
limits so they could collect their dues.’
Near the cross, Paul points out a lateral
mark that indicates Lamp Rock. If you
find yourself this side of the channel,
don’t hug it too closely, he advises,
as the rock extends further underwater.
Tucked behind Polruan blockhouse are
two pretty beaches, known locally as boys’
cove and girls’ cove. The kids from theschool at Polruan used to swim here, but
for decorum’s sake had separate coves.
You can still swim here today, but if you’re
not arriving by boat you have to scramble
over the rocks from the blockhouse.
Polruan school children still consider it
a rite of passage to swim in the harbour.
Before they go to secondary school,
they take part in an organised swim fromThe visitor pontoon near BodinnickThings to do
Explore the Fowey Estuary the way
people used to – by boat. Hire a kayak
at Encounter Cornwall in Golant, or take
the tender upriver as far as Lostwithiel,
stopping en route for coffee and cake
in the delightful village of Lerryn.
Fowey museum is small but excellent,
and has lots of local maritime history.
Readymoney Cove is a beautiful place
for a swim and rockpooling. Walk the
coastal path to Polridmouth – anotherbeautiful beach and the site of
Readymoney Cottage, the inspiration
for the Boathouse in Rebecca.Readymoney Cove from the seaKayakers in the harbourEnjoy afternoon tea in the gardens
of the Fowey Hotel where Daphne du
Maurier met with her mentor Sir Arthur
Quiller-Couch. Here, you can also see
the letters Kenneth Grahame wrote to
his young son, which later gave him
the idea for The Wind in the Willows.
Walk the ‘Hall Walk’ – a spectacular
four-mile circular walk through
woodland around Pont Creek, which
uses Bodinnick and Polruan ferries.
Garden lovers should visit the Eden
Project and Lost Gardens of Heligan.
Charlestown is like stepping back
in time. It’s also the setting for
18th-century Truro in BBC’s Poldark.
The Shipwreck Museum is excellent.
Mevagissey is utterly charming –
wander around, get fish and chips
and go crabbing. In the summer, you
can catch the ferry there from Fowey.
The National Trust house and
gardens are Lanhydrock are great.
On the South West Coast Path you
can visit the daymark on top of Gribbin
Head. This is open to the public on
selected dates throughout the year.
See http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk.
Guided walks run from Fowey on
Tuesday (meet Fowey Town Quay)
and Polruan on Thursday (meet
on the Coal Wharf), both at 11am,
£5 adults, £2 children.
n http://www.foweyheritage.co.ukCRUISING