The lake curves south to an invisible exit, its west shore
mostly wooded with marshy coastal shallows. It feels like
a secret water, the sea safely shut out, and you can see
why Viking ships were based here a dozen centuries ago
There are similar shallows on the west side too but once Orø was
astern, we could keep well over to port to watch the scenery roll by.
We passed some kind of military base with a ship alongside and
then the coast was more pastoral – lush fields, ornate Danish barns
and stretches of mixed woodland. In the north-west crook of the
fjord we nudged into a modern marina complex at Nykøbing,
pleasant enough but rather soulless with rows of apartments.
We lay at the east quay for a bite of lunch before pressing on.
Staying inshore round to Rørvig, we took the buoyed channel
out into the Isefjord entrance and scuttled across the strait to
Hundested, with whitecaps livening things up. Hundested is
a sizeable port with several interlocking basins, and we found
a snug finger berth in the inner yacht haven.Hundested
We enjoyed the vibes of this working harbour where ocean
trawlers once unloaded vast catches and were recharged with
ice, stores and fuel ready for sea again. Hundested is also a holiday
town with white sandy beaches facing the Baltic. Cafés and
restaurants surround the marina, one of which served superb
smoked eel smørrebrød garnished with Danish red caviar.
Mooching round the quays after breakfast, I heard a boat
engine start up and settle down to a slow, rhythmic, gently
coughing exhaust beat that I’ve always associated with
Scandinavia. Following this evocative music I suddenlycame across its source on dry land, in a specially built museum
hut. Several enthusiasts were gazing in awe at a masterpiece of
marine engineering – a tall, solidly built two-cylinder, two-stroke
58hp Hundested fishing boat engine turning at 500rpm. These
robust machines were built here from 1928 until 1990 and used
in fishing and workboats. We’ve often heard Hundesteds in Danish
harbours and it was a nostalgic pleasure to see one in action.Into RoskIlde FjoRd
Two miles further south, restful Lynæs Marina is backed by low
wooded cliffs, the most attractive port of call for visitors near the
mouth of the Isefjord. Lynæs beach is popular with kitesurfers and
we had to dodge several while turning in towards Roskilde Fjord
entrance narrows. The surfers were revelling in the continuing
strong westerly and we surfed a bit ourselves through the half-mile
gap where a diminutive car ferry shuttles across. A smart Baltic
ketch was motoring out, pitching into the short head seas. To
starboard, the ferry was just leaving from Kulhuse Harbour.
The fjord opens out to an almost landlocked lake two miles
wide. Ahead we saw factory chimneys at Frederiksværk steelworks,
once renowned for producing solid high-quality plates for
shipbuilding. Huge barges came in here to deliver raw materials
and load finished steel.
The lake curves south to an invisible exit, its west shore mostly
wooded with marshy coastal shallows. It felt like a secret water, the32TRAVEL