Motor Boat & Yachting — November 2017

to cross our path only a few hundred
feet astern. We can neither hear
nor see the big ship and can only
hope that they’re paying the same
attention to us as we are to them.
We fi nally reach Peterhead in the
early evening. Fortunately, the fog
has lifted after seven hours of blind
cruising. The marina manager has
already gone home and Peterhead
Port Control tries to dissuade
us from entering the marina. He
reckons we’re too big and the tide too
low. When I tell him we have a berth
booked, he wishes us good luck and
turns his attention to other tasks.
We scrape through the entrance
with 0.8m under our keel but have
less luck fi nding our berth. The
recommended outer pier is occupied
by an armada of smaller boats despite
countless unoccupied berths within
the marina which they could fi t into
but are too small for us. I have no idea what to do until a helpful
German sailor points out the inner side of the pier. If I stick the
bow section into one of the free berths we might just fi t alongside.
It’s a tight squeeze involving a narrow entrance and two 90°
turns before we even start to edge our nose into the box. I wouldn’t
normally dare attempt such a tricky manoeuvre but I take the risk
and pull it off at the fi rst attempt.
The next morning begins with another refusal, this time from
Lossiemouth, again due to our size. The alternative is Buckie, a
former fi shing harbour with enough space but no marina. So it’s
out with the long lines and another tidal elevator ride up and down
the quay. The upside is a fee of just £18.90 – a record low for us!

THE FAR NORTH
The following day, we fi nally reach one of the expected highlights
of our cruise, the Caledonian canal. This 97km-long canal cuts
through the heart of Scotland, connecting the North Sea with
the Atlantic Ocean with the aid of several natural bodies of water,
including Loch Ness.

In Inverness, at the eastern entrance to the canal, we welcome

new guests on board, taking our total crew to eight and fi lling

all fi ve cabins. With no tide to worry about, we enjoy the passage

through the canal accompanied by spectacular scenery and

uncharacteristically good weather. The sight of Azura negotiating

the eight locks comprising Neptune’s Staircase near Fort William

becomes a tourist attraction in its own right.

In Fort William we enjoy a memorable diversion on the historic

steam train ride to Mallaig, which enjoys some of Scotland’s fi nest

views including the long, curved Glenfi nnan viaduct made

famous by the Harry Potter fi lms.

As we leave the Caledonian Canal, the cold north wind begins

to blow again. In Oban, four of our guests disembark, leaving the

remaining four to tackle the most challenging leg of our cruise –

a circumnavigation of northern Scotland including the Hebrides,

Cape Wrath, the Orkneys and if possible, the Shetlands.

Our immediate destination is the Isle of Skye, the largest of the

Hebrides. If somebody had asked us about these islands a year ago

we would have drawn a blank. Now we know that there are Inner

and Outer ones and that safe harbours are few and far between.

Today’s port of call is Portree – the only black dot on the Isle

of Skye in Reeds’ marina guide, albeit it without any mention of

the word marina and no phone number. I’m hoping that the lack

of a phone number may prove an advantage – after all, if you can’t

call to book a berth, you can’t be refused one either.

Staying in the lee of the Highlands by hopping from one sea

loch to the next, the strong north wind blows harmlessly over us.

Here, the waters are so calm that we switch on our TV and catch

a glimpse of the football, but our route to Portree will also take us

through more open waters, so we know this tranquillity won’t last.

The rough weather hits us shortly before Portree. The Sound

of Raasay opens up to the north then narrows to the south like

a funnel, forcing the waves to build up and break. The wipers are

running constantly and even then, they can’t fi nish clearing the

fi rst sheet of spray before the next hits.

Not that Azura minds; she stays resolutely

planted without rolling and only modest

pitching as she ploughs into the waves.

Portree itself is tucked into a well-

protected bay, although the waves still

roll in from the north and bounce off the

opposing shore. We try not to expose our

broadside to the waves by keeping our

north-easterly course as long as possible

before making a sharp turn south-west.

In a heartbeat, the rollercoaster ride

is over and we glide quietly into Loch

Portree as if nothing ever happened.

Squeezing through Eyemouth’s narrow entrance

is a real test of nerves but having negotiated the

hazards, I experience a real buzz of elation

70

TRAVEL

Portree’s harbour

on the Isle of Skye

Azura safely tucked

into the pretty little

harbour of Eyemouth

Azura takes a breather

at Fort Augustus

The Caledonian

canal lived up to

all expectations