Yachting Monthly — November 2017

november 2017 http://www.yachtingmonthly.com 45

Dartmouth

Newlyn

Ardglass

Belfast

Strangford

Arklow

Wexford

Wicklow

Greystones

Howth

Dun Laoghaire

Milford Haven

South Bishop Lt

St John’s Point Lt

START

FINISH

NORTHERN

IRELAND

REPUBLIC OF

IRELAND

WALES

ENGLAND

Strangford

Lough

Isle of Man

Quoine YC

Anglesey

St David’s Head

Longships Helford River

Land’s End

Bristol Channel

Dale Bay

Dundrum Bay

Skokholm

Skomer

Isles of Scilly

River Dart

Irish Sea

Channel

St George’s Channel

Mountains

of Mourne

sea miles in his wake, I felt confident
about the 300-mile passage to Ireland.

Best-laid plans
Misplaced confidence, as it turned
out. The first hint that things were
not right came when I tried to engage
reverse gear – all that happened was
that the revs built up and we went
forward at speed. Naively, I thought
the problem was due to operator error
and after a bit of jostling in full public
view, off we went – out of the Dart and
into breaking seas at its mouth, white
water everywhere. Quickly we hoisted
and trimmed sail and Pavane settled
down for the run around Land’s End.
At last I could allow myself a
smile; sails drawing nicely, autopilot
handling the conditions with ease,
the boat showing her potential. The
next forecast changed everything.
The southwesterly set that should
have carried us across St George’s
Channel and up the Irish Sea had
become a strong northerly. We had
little choice but to break our journey,
so, abandoning hopes of passing
the Lizard that night, we headed for
shelter in the Helford River. With
the tide running one way, the wind
clearly showing evil intent, yachts on
moorings everywhere and Pavane still
refusing to snick into the correct gear
we tried for a visitor’s mooring time
and again. After half an hour of arm
stretching futility I took the risk of
stopping the engine between wind and
tide in the hope that her way would
carry us to a mooring where we could
loop a line over the buoy. That worked
and two exhausted sailors hit the
whiskey and tuned in to the shipping
forecast to consider our options.

Renewed optimism
Breakfast was a sombre affair. The
Met Office was adamant the
northerlies would build to gale

Or so we thought. In our budgeting,
Les and I had allowed for a replacement
engine – at some stage, once Pavane
was safely home in Strangford Lough.
What we hadn’t expected was that 30
minutes after launching and but a few

miles along the River Dart, the elderly

Mercedes would seize with a rattle that

betrayed finality. We hadn’t planned on

needing the anchor that early in our trip

either, so a mad scramble ensued before

Pavane lay back majestically, swinging

to the tide. Zodiacs on exercise from

the Britannia Royal Naval College in

Dartmouth were buzzing around us with

automatic weapons firing, which didn’t

help to calm our nerves. We summoned

help and soon a motorboat was towing

us into Noss Marina, where all options

were considered over a strong cup of tea.

Les and I conferred anxiously, both

feeling the recurring fear of rising costs

and potential lack of control. The marina

folk recognised our problems and a deal

was negotiated but even so costs were

mounting. Phone calls were made and

with an ease that, in retrospect, was too

good to be true, a replacement engine

was sourced and installed along with a

reconditioned gearbox. It all took time

and highlighted another disadvantage of

distance buying – your phone bill goes

up. However, eventually, in May 2017, we

got the word – Pavane was ready for sea,

though that is another story.

Derek at Helford, alone

with his thoughts of the

abandoned passage

Amid the debris of renovation it can

be hard to visualise the end result