Saltwater Boat Angling — December 2017

(Barry) #1

Saltwater Boat Angling 65


practical use, due to continuously
cutting off the last few inches every
time I re-tackle, or they become
damaged by constant abrasion.

Low abrasion-resistance and
no stretch
Braid has a very low abrasion-
resistance and virtually no stretch
therefore, it's vitally important to
attach a length of rubbing leader to
the end of the main line before
fitting a terminal tackle rig, to
prevent a rough sea-bed damaging
the main line, and to allow a bit of
'give' in the tackle when a big fish is
thrashing at the side of the boat.
I usually use leader which is the same
length as my rod or, sometimes, a
few turns on the reel. This will usually
suffice for most bottom-fishing
methods. I also match the strength of
the leader to the main line but be
aware that a leader that is too long,
or too thick, may provide too much
resistance in strong tide runs and
therefore overcome the advantages
of using a braided main line.

Lures with braid
When lure fishing direct, I'll opt for
much shorter leader lengths of,
sometimes, just a couple of feet,
when using some of the ultra-thin PE
braids. This ensures that the leader-
knot is outside the tip-ring when
casting and helps to prevent tangles
that sometimes occur with this style
of braid when the leader-knot
catches on a rod-ring.

Leader and hook lengths
The choice of leader and hook length
line is down to personal preference
but I tend to favour clear 'Sunset
Amnesia' in breaking strains from 15
to 60lb for general bottom fishing,
commercial mono, from 80 to 250lb,
for the heavier stuff such as conger
and tope or even for shark traces,
and a fluorocarbon for lure fishing.

Clive Hodges, a very experienced
small-boat angling acquaintance of
mine, prefers to use fluorocarbon
hook lengths and leaders of relatively
high breaking strains for general

fishing, citing their invisibility,
abrasion resistance, and high density
(useful to pin a bait hard on the sea
bed) as the main advantages with
this style of line.

The knot
I mostly employ an improved
'Albright' knot (pictured) to join a
braided main line to the leader,
(see picture); details of how this can
be tied can be found on You Tube
and other online platforms
(including our own channel
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLVCPi

kJj9I). Up to fifteen turns of the braid
in total, depending on the diameter
of the materials used, is usually
enough to produce a secure and
streamlined knot that will pass
through rod-rings unhindered and,
this is relatively easy and quick to tie
whilst aboard a rocking boat which is
always an important consideration.
Recently, however, I've been
experimenting with the FG knot. It is
even more streamlined and
considered by some users to be
stronger than the Albright. It does
take a little more time and practice to
master, particularly when afloat, but
early results have shown it to be very
reliable and it facilitates an even
smoother passage through the rod-
rings, and is especially useful when
lure fishing with ultra-thin braids,
enabling a longer leader to be
employed even when casting away
from the boat.
A 'Uni knot' (pictured) is almost
always used to tie end tackle/hooks
to the leader/traces. The number of

turns will vary with the thickness of
the line but, as a rough guide, I'll use
about six turns in the lighter strains
down to about three for the heavier
stuff to provide a neat reliable knot
that 'snugs' down effectively.

Hooks
When writing this piece, I delved
into my tackle boxes to see what
equipment I regularly use. I was
surprised by the sheer variety of
hooks in my extensive collection,
ranging from tiny size 8 mullet hooks
up to monster 16/0 circle hooks t
hat are used when targeting
porbeagle sharks.
Compared to the overall cost of
fishing from a small angling boat,
hooks are comparatively

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