sky full of brilliant stars. A glass of sauvignon blanc in
hand, it’s one of those priceless moments of calm that
lets you ref lect in peace.
Where Adelaide ends and the Flinders Ranges begin
is clearly outlined on maps, but on the road, it’s more
of a gradual unveiling – from concrete buildings to the
green and yellow grasses of the country, and finally,
to the bold red dirt of the desert. In between these
bookends is a series of townships that are the epitome
of “quaint” – dusty roads, small, picturesque shops and
charming offerings, from locally made jams to artworks.
We stop at several of these townships, which join
the dots between Adelaide and the Flinders Ranges.
Quorn is the very definition of quaint country life,
a place to shake off the extremes of the outback and
readjust yourself to city life. At the delightfully named
Quandong Café, its namesake – the quandong, a native
peach – is the star attraction on the menu. Strong coffee
and an afternoon tea of scones, clotted cream and
quandong jam, served in a room full of country charm,
helps pull me from the outback. But the Flinders Ranges
leave a mark on you, and vivid memories that will have
you thinking about its vast expanse, exotic colours... and
its food, for years to come.BT
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to indulge in, but one of the best things to do is
simply stare out of the window, where the landscape
and the colours change regularly. While the view from
above gives you the “big picture” perspective, there’s
still something special about seeing this evolution of
landscapes and colours from ground level.
In the middle of what feels like nowhere, we come to a
collection of crumbling yet still elegant buildings. They
were once Kanyaka Station, a cattle station established
in 1852. We alight and step over the fine, rocky ground.
Signs show which ruins used to be which parts of the
station: living quarters, storage, workers’ cottages,
workshops and sheds.
Our last overnight stay is at the Prairie Hotel, which
has the distinction of having a permanent population
of just two people. This old-fashioned Australian pub
has impressive indigenous art and giftware for sale, plus
alluring food options. One of the main attractions at the
hotel is its “feral animal” platter, a smorgasbord of native
ingredients including emu pâté, goats’ cheese, smoked
kangaroo and camel mettwurst. It’s tang y and makes for
excellent stories when you get home.
At night, the pub transforms into a stage for one of
the most immersive experiences you can have – a dark
JULY/AUGUST 2019
DESTINATIONS
THIS PAGE FROM LEFT
TO RIGHT: The Prairie
Hotel is home to
the must-try ‘feral’
mixed grill and
platter; the red sand
contains plenty
of archaeological
treasures; and
Kanyaka Station
ruins