Homes Antiques

(Nancy Kaufman) #1

There are few sheep in India so


almost all of the wool used is from


New Zealand or Sardinia


The extraordinary thing about rug weaving is the number
of processes that must occur in a specific sequence. To begin
the weft (the horizontal threads) of natural wool must be
wound into hanks for dyeing. Whirling drums catch the light
as they spin the wool. There are few sheep in India and the
quality of their wool is not good so almost all of the wool
used is from New Zealand or Sardinia shipped to India in
vast quantities. The warp (the vertical threads) are a robust
cotton and remain undyed. These are wound into ‘warps’ on a
large frame and will create the backbone of the rug – no warp
threads will be visible in the final piece.

Gelim or kilim?
There are several dierent types of weaving technique and
loom. A horizontal peddle loom (often built into the floor)
is operated by one two or three weavers depending on the
width of the final rug and creates a linear patterned or striped
flat weave. The weavers work in tandem with impressive
precision energetically throwing a wooden shuttle loaded
with dyed wool across the warp threads. ‘Gelim’ rugs
originate in northern Iran and use a specific dip-dyed weft
technique that creates a feathered ikat blur of dynamic colour.
‘Kilim’ refers to another ancient technique that originated
throughout East Asia. These are woven on vertical looms like
a tapestry. The motif is usually staggered geometric

HOW IT ALL BEGAN...
It’s somewhat mysterious how such a powerful rug-making
industry emerged in a place that has none of the natural
resources required. By all accounts some Iranian master
weavers stopped at Madhosingh village near Khamaria in
Bhadohi while travelling in India in the 16th century and
established the rst loom manufacturing the rst carpet in
India. There was also some inuence from the ruling Mughal
emperor of the time Akbar who brought craftsmen from Persia
to weave carpets for the royal courts and palaces.
In 2010 and as a nal endorsement of the importance
of this industry the carpets of the region received the
Geographical Indication (GI) tag which means carpets
manufactured in nine districts – Bhadohi Mirzapur Varanasi
Ghazipur Sonbhadra Kaushambi Allahabad Jaunpur and
Chandauli – would be tagged with ‘Handmade carpet of
Bhadohi’. The rug equivalent of the Champagne appellation it
gives the area and its star product a cultural status worldwide.

ABOVE FROM LEFT Stacks of rugs are piled up ready for shipment across the
world; myriad hand-dyed weft threads in a kaleidoscope of shades FACING PAGE
A completed at weave gelim is photographed against a dramatic backdrop in ‘The
Blue City’ of Jodhpur Rajasthan

116 H&A SUMMER 2017

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