Homes Antiques

(Nancy Kaufman) #1

comfortably coexist. Under the same


sprawling roof you’ll find traces of a floor


that dates back to AD300 when Port Eliot


was a thriving monastery. (The house thus


lays claim to being England’s oldest


inhabited building.) Not far away there’s a


controversial mural on the walls of a


neoclassical interior designed by Sir John


Soane. ‘Some people love it but others think


it’s dreadful’ says Lucy Walker events


manager. Either way it’s impossible not to


be astonished.


In most practical senses Port Eliot is out


of sync with the modern world. There are 11


staircases 82 chimneys and half an acre of


roof. But there are only 11 radiators to heat


the 124 rooms and in them little has


changed over the past two centuries. The


green wallpaper lining the Lobby was made


in the 1800s using arsenic. ‘We were told by


the late Earl that no one had ever died but


not to go licking it’ says Ruth.


The medieval cellars were remodelled in


the 19th century into an array of service


rooms. Opening o a wide central corridor a


Scullery China Closet Lamp Room a Still


Room and a Carpenter’s Closet remind you


of the numerous sta who once lived and


worked here. In the main kitchen which is


still used by the Eliot family the Esse oven


dates back to c1900. The dishes in the


porcelain cupboard are still used at dinner.


‘I wouldn’t dare to ask anyone to pass me


the potatoes – the china is so valuable’


says Lucy.


Threadbare carpets and frayed bed


hangings apart the powerful imprint of the


Eliots who moved in after the Dissolution


of the Monasteries and whose lives and


loves shape every room remains indelible.


The word ‘democracy’ is said to have first


been coined by Sir Thomas Elyot a courtier


amongst Henry VIII’s retinue whose


portrait hangs in the Lobby.


Port Eliot is out of sync with


the modern world. There


are only 11 radiators to


heat the 124 rooms


ABOVE Boots and shoes
lined up by the garden door
and hats arranged on a
table and stacked on top
of a linen press inject a
quirky dash of humour that
is part of Port Eliot’s unique
charm. The distinctive green
wallpaper dates from the
1800s and contains arsenic
LEFT An elaborate Meissen
fruit service is among the
18th and 19th-century
porcelain treasures stored
in the China Closet.
Although very valuable
much of it is still used by
the family

H&A LIFESTYLE: Open house


H&A SUMMER 2017 91
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