5280 Magazine – May 2018

56 |^5280 |^ MAY 20^18

otics, such as $1,200

Amarones and the

usual super-priced

super-Tuscans, but

there are bottles from most regions for

less than $60 and a few for under $40.

A seasoned Frasca kitchen alum, chef

Ian Wortham, also migrated to Denver for

the launch. But where the Frasca menu is

a meditation on the Friuli-Venezia Giulia

region, Wortham’s food at Tavernetta is

Pan-Italian. It’s neither predictable nor

surprising, which seems to be the idea.

here’s Gorgonzola with honey to start or,

say, a nice carpaccio; you can order seafood

fritto misto for the table. Handmade pasta

is on the menu, of course, including gnoc-

chi with lamb ragu and tagliatelle with

lobster and Calabrian chiles. he savory

dishes culminate in a few simple-sounding

entrées, including lamb with cipollini

onions and pistachios and branzino with

fennel, escarole, olive, and citrus. here’s

nothing experimental, and nothing is too

expensive. Which means that everything

rests on the execution.

Lunch with my Danish friend was close

to impeccable. First, we had a potato soup

with black trues that was silky without

excessive cream and balanced with a faint

vinegary kick; the trues were not detect-

able but also not missed. Next, there was a

serving of supple smoked salmon, draped

into a yurt shape over a pile of arugula and

dotted with capers, the whole thing rest-

ing on a thin pool of dill-inlected ricotta

cream. A late-winter salad of celery root,

apple, farro, and pomegranate, also dressed

with a barely there touch, popped with

bright lavors and crunch.

hen came the aforementioned gnoc-

chi with lamb ragu. here are a thousand Nisa Sedaghat

Star Somm

Taver net t a’s

wine director,

Carlin Karr

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