41LEFT A common
seahorse, just one
example of the dazzling
critters that inhabit
these reefsBELOW A paradise beach of
dazzling sand framed in azure
waters provides a location
for one of “the best surface
intervals in the world”Every morning, as the sun rises,
these graceful fish come up from the
underwater canyon to be serviced by
enterprising blue-streak wrasse. The
threshers are now also accustomed to
being greeted by boatloads of bubble-
blowing humans, there to worship this
gentle shark. Early starts are the name
of the game and, as you struggle into
your dive gear through bleary eyes,
doubts will creep up about the decision
to leave a comfy bed behind. Thankfully,
these will soon wash away and, by the
time you resurfaace, having (hopefully)
encountered one of the most elusive
animals on the planet, you will be on
a pure natural high! Back in time for
breakfast and with adrenaline racing,
you promise yourself to do it all again
tomorrow morning. The question is
though... what to do until then?
KALLANGAMAN –
AN UNDERWATER PLAYGROUND
We signed up for the day trip to
Kallangaman Island and, after a 90-
minute boat ride, the sandy silhouette
of a small sandbar came into view.
As we slid below the calm surface, we
found a healthy fringing reef, starting in
the shallows and then dropping steeply
along sheer rock faces. Hidden on the
reef we found the upturned mouth of
a stonefish, quietly lying in wait for its
unsuspecting prey. A little deeper,
a squadron of lionfish confidently
hovered around the branching soft
corals, fins outstretched to create an
imposing profile. Open Water students
cruised above us on the lip of the wall
and a group of rebreather divers silently
carried out a technical dive in the depths
beneath. This was an underwater
playground to suit all experience levels!
In between dives, we were treated
to what I am officially calling “the best
surface interval in the world”! Our
boat moored up on the beach and we
were free to explore white sands and
turquoise water, framed by a beautiful
azure sky brushed with white clouds.
This was the very definition of a
tropical paradise.
We slept like babies that night and
arose with the grace of hibernating
bears for the thresher shark dive.
A rainstorm had stirred up the visibility
but it seemed to play in our favour as a
thresher appeared out of the gloom and,
seemingly unaware of our presence,
swam straight at Alex’s video camera
before making a quick about-turn! We’d
gotten very lucky and the day was only
just beginning.