MINI GUIDE
Alternative Algarve
COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM KATE ARMSTRONG AND ANDY SYMINGTON. PHOTOGRAPHS: SABINE LUBENOW/GETTY IMAGES, MEDIO TUERTO/GETTY, ELENA PUEYO/GETTY IMAGES, ROETTING/POLLEX/LOOK-FOTO/GETTY, MATT MUNROAlgarve essentials The know-how
FURTHER READING
Lonely Planet’s
new Pocket
Algarve
(US$13.99)
covers both the
main tourist
spots and
under-the-radar corners. The
Algarve also has a chapter in
the Portugal guide (US$24.99),
which you can download at
lonelyplanet.com (US$4.95).
Get into the local rhythm by
listening to fado, the nation’s
most famous style of music:
Fado em Mim (US$10) is an
album by the legendary
Mariza. The Inquisitors’ Manual
(US$14; Grove Press) by
António Lobo Antunes is a
harrowing story about life
under the authoritarian
Portuguese ruler Salazar.BIRDWATCHING
The Algarve is rich in wetlands
and is an important stopover for
migratory birds. Birds & Nature
can organise birdwatching trips in
the region (birds.pt).
Sagres Raptors pass through this
southwestern area on their way
to Africa in the autumn. It’s also
good for spotting seabirds.
Reserva Natural do Sapal de
Castro Marim Important winter
visitors to this site in the east of
the Algarve include greater
flamingos, spoonbills and
Caspian terns; in spring it’s busy
with white storks (pictured).
Lagoa dos Salgados Between
Albufeira and Armação de Pêra,
this lagoon is a popular spot for
watching ducks and waders; rare
species are often seen here.
Parque Natural da Ria Formosa
This park of tidal estuaries and dune
islands hosts more than 20,000
birds. Special boat trips leave
from Olhão and other towns
in the area.TRANSPORT
Faro is the gateway airport for the
Algarve and it’s possible to fly here
from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur
on KLM with one stop in
Amsterdam (from US$835). From
the airport, shuttle services
(US$15 to Lagos; faroshuttlebus.
com; book in advance) can zip you
to towns across the Algarve or
take you into central Faro to
connect with buses and trains. The
train is a handy option for tripping
along the south coast, but hiring a
car gives you maximum flexibility,
particularly for inland travel. Major
car-hire firms operate out of Faro
airport (from around US$37 per
day; europcar.com).Natural landscaping around the
swimming pool at Casa VicentinaBeaches Activities Shopping Sights Eating SleepingWHERE TO STAY
Hidden in a quiet hill village
near Loulé, Casa Candelária is
an enchanting b&b in a restored
traditional house. Rooms come
with private patios and breakfast
can be taken on the roof terrace
(casa-candelaria.com; Monte
Seco; from US$62).Casa Vicentina is a chic and
eco-conscious family-friendly
retreat on the west coast. The
17-hectare property has a pool
abutting a lily-pad-filled lake,
and a handful of suites, some
with kitchens (casavicentina.pt;
Monte Novo, Odeceixe; from
US$93).
Set among orange groves
near Tavira, Quinta da Lua is a
delight for its peace and
serenity. It has bright and very
stylish rooms set around a large
saltwater swimming pool
(quintadalua.com.pt;
Bernardinheiro 1622-X, Santo
Estevão; from US$142).