Lonely_Planet_Asia_February_2017

(Amelia) #1

MINI GUIDE


Wines of Champagne


COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM KERY CHRISTIANI. PHOTOGRAPHS: AFRICA STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK, SYLVAIN SONNET/GETTY, ANN TAYLOR-HUGHES/GETTY

Champagne essentials The know-how


FURTHER READING
Lonely Planet’s
France
(US$24.99)
includes a chapter
on the
Champagne
region and its touring routes,
which can also be downloaded
individually (US$4.95) at
lonelyplanet.com; France’s
Best Trips (US$24.99) includes
a Champagne itinerary as one
of its 39 regional drives. Wine
Travel Guides offers a free,
in-depth online guide to the
Champagne region
(winetravelguides.com).
Noel Barber’s lightweight war
drama, A Farewell to France
(US$4; Coronet), about rural
life on a Champagne
vineyard in the
1930s–40s.

CHAMPAGNE
SAVOIR-FAIRE
Blanc de Blancs Champagne
made using only chardonnay
grapes. Fresh and elegant with
a bouquet reminiscent of fruits
such as pear and plum.
Blanc de Noirs A full-bodied,
deep golden champagne made
solely with black grapes (pinot
noir or pinot meunier). Often
rich and refined, with great
complexity and a long finish.
Rosé Pink champagne (mostly
served as an aperitif), with a
fresh character and summer-
fruit flavours. Made by adding
a small percentage of red pinot
noir to white champagne.
Prestige Cuvée Usually made
with grapes from top-classed
grand cru vineyards, and priced
and bottled accordingly.
Millésimé Vintage champagne
produced from a single crop
during an exceptional year.
Most champagne is non-vintage.

TRANSPORT
There are no direct flights to the
Champagne region, but it’s
around 2½–3 hours’ drive from
Calais and is easily reached from
Paris and its airports. Trains run
from Paris Gare de L’Est to Reims
in less than an hour (from US$31
rtn; uk.voyages-sncf.com) and to
Épernay in about 1½ hours
(US$47). Direct trains also run
between these two regional hub
towns (US$15; 22–42 minutes).
The best way to get to Troyes is
by bus from Reims. To explore
the countryside and wine-
growing villages you’ll need a car:
Hertz has a base in Reims and
Europcar is in Épernay.

One of 20 classically decorated
guestrooms in Les Crayères

Courses Tours Eating Sleeping

WHERE TO STAY
Hôtel Les Comtes de
Champagne is ensconced in a trio
of pastel-hued 16th-century
half-timbered houses in Troyes, in
the south of the region. Its bright
courtyard lobby and flower boxes
give it a lovely feel, and there’s a
12th-century cellar (comtesde

champagne.com; 54–56 Rue de
la Monnaie; from US$99).
Sitting handsomely beside the
Avenue de Champagne in
Épernay in grounds with an
outdoor pool, La Villa Eugène is
a class act. This beautiful
19th-century mansion once
belonged to the Mercier family
(villa-eugene.com; 84 Ave de
Champagne; from US$277).
To sip champagne in the lap of
luxury, book into Les Crayères
on the fringes of Reims.
Manicured lawns sweep to this
graceful château, where you can
dine in Michelin-starred finery
(lescrayeres.com; Blvd Henry
Vasnier 64; from US$394).
Free download pdf