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Food tour


of Brittany


Medieval villages and a dramatic coastline
characterise this traditional slice of France,
where locals celebrate Breton culture with fresh
oysters, delicious crêpes and tasty cider.

Dinan’s old city has a
good choice of charming
eateries and bars

Seafood


Crêperies Bistros


BREIZH CAFÉ
This crêperie is renowned for its
gourmet crêpes and galettes
made from organic flours. The
cappuccino-and-cream décor
gives it a fresh, modern feel and
the crêpes are really first-class.
Where else could you savour a
galette stuffed with langoustines
and cheese? Wash it all down
with a local cider (breizhcafe.
com; 7 Quai Thomas, Cancale;
noon–10pm Sat–Wed; mains
from US$5).

LA SAINT-GEORGES
Most crêperies play on the twee
old-Breton style, but this one
in Rennes takes an eccentric
approach. Although it occupies
a heritage building, its purple,
green and gold furnishings, fluffy
carpets and luxurious chairs
make the place look more like a
glam Ibizan chill-out club. Funky
décor is matched by food with
an experimental edge, such as
crêpe with marshmallows
(creperie-saintgeorges.com; 11
Rue du Chapitre; noon–2.30pm
& 7pm–10pm Tue-Sat; mains
from US$5).

CRÊPERIE AHNA
Run by the same family for four
generations and with unusual
delights such as galette with duck
and snail butter, this place
deserves its reputation as one
of the best crêperies in the
quaint walled medieval town
of Dinan. It also serves grilled
meats and excellent ice creams.
Reserve a table in advance if you
can, particularly on Saturdays
(creperie-ahna.blogspirit.com;
7 Rue de la Poissonnerie;
noon–2pm & 7pm–9.30pm
Mon–Sat; mains from US$6).

MARCHÉ AUX HUÎTRES
The idyllic little fishing port of
Cancale, near St-Malo, is famed
for its oyster beds and seafood at
the Marché aux Huîtres. Locals
sell their catch from stalls by the
Pointe des Crolles lighthouse.
Oysters are numbered according
to size and quality: they’ll be
shucked, dashed with lemon and
served before your eyes – voilà,
one perfect lunch (9am–6pm;
12 oysters from US$4).

LE VIVIER
This convivial eatery is perched
on a small cliff on the wave-
lashed Côte Sauvage; bookings
are essential for the top tables,
squeezed onto a sun-trap terrace
hovering above the rocky
coastline. The menu is
unpretentious – salads, mussels
and smoked fish – and you
couldn’t ask for a better spot
when the sun is shining (00 33 2
97 50 12 60; 12 Route du Vivier;
Feb–Nov; mains from US$8).

TY KORN
On day-trippers’ favourite Île
d’Ouessant, Ty Korn has a
ground-floor bar serving Breton
black-wheat beers and an excellent
restaurant upstairs where seafood
is a speciality. Save room for the
divine tiramisu breton – biscuit
with apples, mascarpone and
salted caramel sauce (facebook.
com/TyKornOuessant; Lampaul;
11am–3pm & 5.30pm–1am Tue–
Sat; mains from US$10.50).

LE BISTRO DE JEAN
The enthralling mast-filled port
town of St-Malo and its historic
walled core is a beautiful spot.
Peer through the windows of
this lively bistro and you’ll see
it’s packed with loyal regulars.
The flavourful cuisine includes
duck breast, lamb shanks and
sea bass (00 33 2 99 40 98 68;
6 Rue de la Corne de Cerf;
noon–1.45pm Mon–Tue & Thu–
Fri, 7pm–9.30pm daily; mains
from US$14).
L’ATELIER DES
GOURMETS
Rennes has no shortage of
cooking talent yet the chef at
this smart bistro is still
managing to garner serious
accolades. L’Atelier is a hidden
institution, adeptly blending the
best of high-end bistro fare with
solid regional cuisine. It’s good
value, too (latelierdesgourmets-
rennes.fr; 12 Rue Nantaise;
noon–1.30pm & 7.45pm–
9.30pm Tue–Fri, 7.45am–
9.30pm Sat; mains from US$12).

LE MUTIN GOURMAND
This restaurant in Crozon is one
of the region’s top gourmet
experiences, with an intimate
dining room and delicious
cuisine. For a more affordable
option, head to the annexe
nearby where you’ll find lunch
from £13.50 at Le Bistrot du
Mutin (lemutingourmand.fr;
Place de l’Église, Crozon;
noon–1.30pm Wed–Sun,
7pm–9pm Mon–Sat; three-
course set menus from US$28).

Savoury galettes are a speciality
at Cancale’s Breizh Café

Oysters have been cultivated
in Cancale for centuries

L’Atelier des Gourmets, in Rennes,
focuses on seasonal produce

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MINI GUIDE

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